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2JZGTE Engine Swap Guide / R154 Conversion - Jamie's Swap Chronicle

1985 Toyota Supra 2JZGTE Engine Swap Guide
5MGE to 2JZGTE R154 conversion


Link to my Full Build Thread: Engine, Brakes, Suspension and More. Click the link below to view.
http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?53215-Cap-n-2JZ-s-85-Supra-Build-Thread


Overview

The 2jz swap is not a direct swap, but in my opinion a VERY worthwhile investment, no custom mounting points need to be created but you need custom brackets to do the JZ to MA mount conversion, only a small amount of cutting and a bit more banging is required to make clearance. Please Continue reading.

To save you the most time this is the list of what you have to do to get it to fit and the parts you need.

Engine
- 2JZGTE engine (JDM) with full uncut wiring harness. You have to cut the harness one wire at a time and extend it between 18-20 inches so the plug can be passed through the firewall and the ECU installed under the dash. If you work diligently you can do this yourself in about 30 hours, I also suggest you remove all un-used wiring unless you are using the automatic transmission. You will need the wiring diagrams for the Celica Supra, download the PDF TSRM Service manual from the FAQ section on this forum, the wiring you need is all in there and then you will also need the WILBO ECU pinout. (see the link)
http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/37134472/2JZ-GTE JZS147 Aristo Engine Wiring

Engine Mounts
- You will need 2jz to MA61 engine mounts and a new transmission mount.
http://www.driftmotion.com/1JZ-2JZ-Engine-Swap-Brackets-for-MK2-Supra-p/dm2226.htm

Transmission
- You need an R154 Transmission and an Automatic transmission cross member from an MK2 if you want to do a manual conversion/upgrade. You will also require a (1JZ to R154) bell-houing and 1JZ Steel Flywheel. You can buy these new from Toyota or from Driftmotion, a lot of parts can be bought on Driftmotion. Don't use an aluminum flywheel. (See my clutch suggestion below) Alternatively if you have an Automatic transmission car you can use the automatic transmission that comes with your new engine and the automatic transmission cross member already in your car. For the R154 conversion in a manual body car you will need to find an Automatic transmission cross-member to use to mount the longer transmission. http://www.driftmotion.com/category-s/1838.htm

Hammering specific small areas to fit the engine and transmission properly.
- To fit the engine and transmission you will have to take a hammer and clearance a spot on the firewall where the rear turbo inlet pipe will rest, and then you have to go in the transmission tunnel with a bigger hammer and you need to widen the tunnel to fit the wider r154 transmission. During your first test fit pay close attention to where everything is touching and mark it well so you know where to clearance with your hammers. You also have to cut a small notch towards the rear of the shifter pan in the floor because the transmission will sit back about 2 inches further than the w58 did.

Clutch Selection
- You will need a suitable clutch, I suggest this one from stock to moderate power levels. I am using this clutch, it is great, it holds a lot of power and abuse and feels like a stock clutch. Use a stock style STEEL flywheel, aluminum gets sticky when its hot and welds itself to the clutch disc.)
http://raptorracing.com/toyota/1982-1986-mkii-supra/mkii-drivetrain/raptor-racing-feramic-6puck-r154-clutch-kit

Clutch Master Cylinder
- You should upgrade to a Toyota Land Cruiser CLUTCH Master Cylinder to use with the R154 transmissions slave cylinder, using the bigger clutch cylinder with the larger volume helps place the friction point in a more effective area of the clutch travel and better matches the slave cylinders fluid displacement. I noticed an improvement in smoothness of city driving while clutching after upgrading to the Land cruiser master cylinder. (buy this part on www.rockauto.com)

Charged Air Cooling
- You'll need an inter-cooler and pipes, a hole saw cutter to make a place to pass the charge pipe on the passenger side. You will also have to lock open the traction control flapper in the throttle body.

Exhaust
- You'll need a custom exhaust system, I used an MK3 2JZ swap cat delete downpipe and had it modified to fit my Supra along with a custom exhaust system fabricated after the down-pipe all the way to the back. This one: Take note it does not fit without modification**
http://www.driftmotion.com/Downpipe-MK3-Supra-Aristo-Swap-p/dm2111.htm

Driveshaft
- You'll need a custom driveshaft, you can order one from Driftmotion along with the diff flange adapter you need, I went this route, really nice driveshaft, replaceable U-joints.
http://www.driftmotion.com/3-in-Steel-1pc-Driveshaft-p/dm79.htm

Differential 7.5" Upgrades
- You should seriously consider rebuilding and upgrading the stock diff and lowering the gear ratio. This can be accomplished either with a detroit true trac differential unit or a Weir performance upgrade kit for the stock LSD and a Weir crush sleeve eliminator to set the pinion bearing pre-load. You can almost be guaranteed to have diff issues with the gain in torque without some attention here. I also recommend a set of new or used gears with a lower final drive ratio for use with the 2JZ R154 Combo. Aim for Cressida 3.73 gears and if you have a hard time finding a set try for 3.58 Toyota truck gears. These gears will lower your cruising revs and increase your fuel mileage and increase your top end speed.
http://www.weirperformance.com/solidpinionspacerkits.html
http://www.weirperformance.com/finaldrivegears.html

Bushings
You should also change ALL the rear rubber mounting bushings with Raptor Poly ESPECIALLY the diff and subframe mount bushings. And consider changing all the remaining bushings in the rest of the chassis also.
http://raptorracing.com/toyota-mkii-supra/mk2-suspension/raptor-racing-mk2-diff-mount-bushings
http://raptorracing.com/toyota-mkii-supra/mk2-suspension/raptor-racing-mk2-subframe-bushings

Fuel System
- You'll need to upgrade the stock fuel pump with at least a 255 LPH unit or modify the inlet/outlet ports on your fuel pump hanger, use a 320 LPH if you want to boost the engine about as much as it can take on the stock internals, any race build needs 2 pumps and a fancy tank hanger. Be sure the fuel system is wired so it constantly supplies 12 Volts to the fuel pump using the COR relay circuit. Getting the MK2s fuel system to work with a failsafe is a bit tricky but you can hot wire the pump by jumping the old AFM check connector located in the passenger side body wiring harness around where the Air Flow Meter was originally located. You need to jump this check connector to energize the fuel pump COR relay circuit to make it function to turn on the pump; but this method does not provide a fail-safe. With the connector jumped check if the pump receives its full voltage. Please read this document by Wilbo for further explanation. http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/43601575/Toyota FPC to COR Wiring

- You'll need to consider how to hook up the fuel system, you can use the stock fuel lines until you boost the engine for more power; then you will need to increase the size of the fuel lines to provide adequate fuel flow. My fuel lines were all rusted out, yours probably will be as well, so I used AN-6 hose and fittings to make new connections from the tank to the fuel rail using an old standard GM style fuel filter in the middle.

Power Steering
You can easily connect the Celica Supra rack to the 2JZ power steering pump using the conversion hose and rack fittings from driftmotion, you then need to locate a suitable power steering reservoir and mount it to the shock tower and use a NON Crush-able type hydraulic hose to gravity feed the pump.
http://www.driftmotion.com/1JZ-2JZ-PS-Hose-MK3-MK4-SC300-p/dm11.htm
http://www.driftmotion.com/Toyota-PS-Rack-Return-Fitting-p/dm1620.htm




Tips and tricks:




Valve Stem Seals
- Chances are when you start up your engine for the first time and drive it around the seals are going to be shot and its going to be smoking, don't be alarmed and jump to conclusions because this is very common. I suggest first that you perform a compression and leak-down test to ensure that you have a healthy engine to start with and the smoke is genuinely the seals. No point in repairing a blown engine, test first! Change the seals for GSC Viton seals which can handle higher oil temperatures afterwards (don't use oem seals for this!) Also, change the PCV valve and PCV breather hoses. Use the rope method to hold the valves in place. First with the piston at BDC stuff a nylon rope in as much as will fit without getting caught in the open valves. When a reasonable amount of rope is stuffed into the cylinder you then move the piston back towards TDC until the rope holds the valves in place so you can remove the valve spring to be able to change the seals. Don't rotate the crank again until you put the valve spring and retainers back or you will drop the valve in the cylinder and you will have to remove the head to retrieve it. http://raptorracing.com/toyota-mkiv-supra-tt/mkiv-engine/gsc-power-division-2jzgte-viton-valve-stem-seals

You also require a few special tools and there are no substitute for them:
NYLON Rope. Don't use ANYTHING ELSE. About the thickness of your little finger. Not too thick or you won't be able to pass it through the spark plug hole. Buy 10 feet to be sure. Use something plastic as your stuffer, if you use a coat hanger to push the rope in the cylinder you risk scratching the bore. Take care doing this job, use plastic tools to remove the cam covers and any prying you do must be with PLASTIC tools. Use door trim removal tools because the aluminum of the head surfaces is very soft.
Toyotool Valve Master: http://www.toyotool.com/
Valve Seal Pliers: (DO NOT SUBSTITUTE for this tool) Take care and cover exterior edges of the tool with vinyl tape to avoid scratching the lifter buckets while pulling on the seals https://www.amazon.ca/CTA-Tools-2205-Valve-Pliers/dp/B006Z58VUU
Door trim removal tools for prying on the cam covers: https://www.amazon.com/Panel-Removal-Tool-pcs-Upholstery/dp/B00LUPOSD4

Other reasons for Smoke
Sometimes imported engines are faulty, head-gaskets need to be changed, rings are blown out, rarely its a blown turbo unless you can confirm the engine has been used out of its operating range or its missing the cats on the down-pipe, indicators the engine has been driven harder. Try to use an importer that has a good reputation and try to get an engine that was in a stock vehicle before it was pulled, with no modifications to ensure you get a healthy engine with a lot of life left in it. You can sniff out good engines if you know what to look for. Ask your friends where they got their motors.

Crankshaft Damper
- CHANGE THE Crankshaft DAMPER, the oem style dampers tend to separate and explode into pieces when you least expect it, don't use an OEM replacement, use a Fluidampr. CHEAP INSURANCE don't mess around with this! I've seen it happen enough times that I will put emphasis on this.
http://www.driftmotion.com/product-p/dm1781.htm

Water Pump Conversion
- Use the MKIV USDM water pump to eliminate the Aristo Hydro fan style pump, you can get the pump and pulleys you need from Driftmotion.
http://www.driftmotion.com/2JZ-GTE-1JZ-GTE-water-pump-p/dm131.htm
http://www.driftmotion.com/JZ-Pulley-Kit-V2-0-6061-Aluminum-p/dm694.htm

Rear Shocks that help to eliminate wheel hop
- Use Isuzu Trooper rear shocks, MK2s have a lot of wheel hop with any other shock you can find, the trooper shocks hold the wheels down with the 2JZ. Don't lower the car without FIRST doing the camber correction mod or you will lose almost all your traction. http://raptorracing.com/toyota/1982-1986-mkii-supra/mkii-suspension/raptor-racing-rear-camber-mod-bracket-kit

Controlling Boost with Stock ECU using the exhaust restriction method.
- You cannot use a boost controller with the sequential turbo system, it is not recommended that you re-route the vacuum system that controls the turbos valves. Instead the system balances itself based on exhaust pressure or restriction in the down-pipe (like the stock catalytic converters). If you install a fully straight exhaust with no restriction you will need to add a 2" restriction plate in the down-pipe to compensate so the turbos do not over-boost. Alternatively you could install a catalytic converter as OEM exhaust was designed and it will help control peak boost levels. At this point you should also consider getting a Boost Cut Controller to eliminate boost cut over 14 psi. You can safely run JDM turbos at 17 PSI, don't push them harder than that because the ceramic impellers will explode. FCD's and other piggy back devices are generally not recommended because they simply manipulate the signals the ECU receives which can lead to engine damage caused by detonation if configured improperly or used in conjunction with other devices connected to the ecu. You can easily control boost by modulating the size of hole in your restriction plate with a straight exhaust system and stock ECU leaving the ECU do the rest of the guess work. My research has found a 2" hole is ideal if a 3" exhaust system is used. I strongly recommend upgrading to a programmable engine management computer such as Megasquirt MS3 PRO Plug and Play when possible, Haltech, LINK or Motec units are also great choices. All is based on your budget and goals. To get started I recommend the MVP Motorsports Boost Cut Controller, this device is very effective and only interferes with the MAP pressure signal to the ECU. It is good for BPU cars still using the stock turbos.
http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/mvp-motorsports/mvp-motorsports-boost-cut-controller/bcc/i-2275742.aspx

Hook up your heating!
I see a lot of builds that people delete their heating, I don't know where they live or if its because they are lazy but I use my car in Canada up until November 1st when it goes into storage where the temperatures can be in the 30-40s at night, heating isn't a luxury its a necessity especially if you want to take your loved ones out in your cool 2JZ swapped car, hook it up! This thread will help you diagnose ALL your heating problems in a systematic way that guarantees you'll get it working again. READ THIS> You'll thank me later when you are out boosting in 30 degree weather and you are warm and the turbos are happy too.
http://www3.sympatico.ca/dean.anderson4/HeatingSystem.htm

Things to consider regarding safety and additional things you should consider prior to your 2jz swap.
If you consider doing a 2jz swap please also consider the brake and suspension modifications needed to handle the huge jump in performance you will gain from this swap. A stock brake/suspension car is a dangerous combo with a 2jz, I've seen a lot of them crashed because of stuff like that. The entire car needs to be looked at for the sake of safety, if you build it right it will be a hell of a lot of fun. I hope this guide can help get you started :thumbsup:.

If you have any specific questions post them here or send me a PM.

Cheers, Jamie.





Clean up, Test fit and Paint





Installation process and building the car:







Wiring the engine, and making connections to the body harness for fuel pump circuit and power for the coils and injectors.







Valve Stem Seal Replacement.



Interior Wiring for gauges.



Transmission and Differential







Shocks & Axles



Brakes & Suspension



The car runs and moves on its own power again! Now sending it off to have the exhaust made. Drove it home!



Exhaust



All finished



A 2jz R154 Swapped Celica Supra roaming the streets.






Link to my Full Build Thread: Engine, Brakes, Suspension and More. Click here to view.
http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?53215-Cap-n-2JZ-s-85-Supra-Build-Thread
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
I want to try and get this car running on a reasonable budget but I have to ask the opinions of the others for topics like: fuel pump selection.

Feel free to chime in.

I also want to delete the AC because the compressor pully is damaged, I see the bracket for the power steering pump may need modification, does anyone have a serpentine belt length calculated to delete the ac compressor?
 

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hey jamie, i'm also doing my research too with my buddy, but will plan to stay n/a, for ease of maintenance, but may feel the need for more power down the road. do you at least have the motor mounts?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I have the motor mounts ready and the auto trans cross member.
 

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Swap bible? lol nice... Welcome to the club.. many dollars down the road it'll be up and running. Didn't really read your questions as I don't have time. Thought the car was done with the title ;) anyways good luck!

-Leon
 

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Real nice thread Jamie! Keep up the good work!
 

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Swap bible? lol nice... Welcome to the club.. many dollars down the road it'll be up and running. Didn't really read your questions as I don't have time. Thought the car was done with the title ;) anyways good luck!

-Leon
you'll know when the car is done ;)
 

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you and me both right, if you beat 5 years let me know ;)

fuel pump you can use the mk.IV denso or the walbro 255. the denso does flows more. as i recall some where in the 265 range. as for the power steering you can just remove all the a/c stuff and be fine. or build an additional support bracket for the lower ac mount like I did. Otherwise you'll be fine with the power steering stay and mount alone though. As for the belt just wrap a string around the route and measure. I had one laying around but got rid of it when I swapped my Silver car to a 7M.

It really is a simply swap if you have the dough roll to get everything purchased. I just recommend not to get to fansty right away or you'll be were I'm at 5 years later.. haha

-Leon
 

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For the serpentine belt ck Driftmotion.com they have a belt for an A/C delete.
What I did was (destroy) the A/C compressor, thow away the front front pulley/bearing
section and the rear compressor assy keeping only the part with the mounts. So keeping
the section from the lower and upper mounts and the part where the P/S pump attaches
but nothing else.. hard to explain but will get you a pic to better explain.

PT 2 of JZ swap....open wallet empty contents
.....repeat as necessary

18 months and counting on mine, good luck on yours
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I agree with the expensiveness of this compleatly.

I was calculating more of the stuff Im going to need to buy and I will assure you this car wont get finished this year.

When I finish my trade and get working full time in a company the wallet will be emptying its contents frequently.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
these are the broken things I need to find.

how to repair this clip



where the tubes connect the plastic ends have broken off



need a used engine mount






automatic transmission for sale. Best offer.

 

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ok time out..

Aren't you using the TechNick Mounts? if you are you don't need any of the factory JZ mounts. The clip that is broken is for Traction Control, unless you plan on fab up the counters and pickups and installing the rest of the ECUs you won't be using that. Pull and delete and remove servo. The Broke VSV SupraFourms. Routing just search button 2JZ Vacuum diagram etc.
 

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I'd stay away from FelPro gaskets Jamie...only go Toyota. Most of the sealing of these engines is from a tube (FIPG), O-rings, and a few metal gaskets. You will get a bunch of crap from FelPro that will leak given time. Oh...and go with the Denso fuel pump...it is a direct replacement for the stock MkII pump. Here's the cheapest place to get them...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Denso-Fuel-Pump-950-0155-Supra-2jzgte-1993-1998-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem20b5354df1QQitemZ140479122929QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Good luck!
 

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OEM oil pumps, OEM standard water pumps (Electric pumps from case to case are different). ACL race or Clevitte Coated bearings. OEM SEALS or nothing... Nothing will fit right.. Felpro doesn't make shit for the 2JZ-GTE. OEM seals are cheap and only a few needed plus a tube of FIPG.
 

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OEM..OEM..OEM...did we mention OEM? Mark can get u everything u need backed with experience, OEM gaskets and seals are about the same cost as FELPRO junk, dont let the ol' saying that dealership parts are waaay expensive, theyre really not, + youll have a piece of mind....settle for nothing less. Enjoy your build.
 
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