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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone ever had experiences with header wrap? I've been researching the products and from what i've been reading it's not a bad decision to go for it.. My main concern is the heat that generates in the engine bay.. Esp. for the 5m's, I feel like there is a lack of power because my K&N intake breathes in alot of hot air.. And on those warm sunny days flyin down the freeway i cant accelerate as much, it really irritates me!! I also read that the hotter the exhaust gasses the easier the flow.. My plans are to wrap my headers and just throw out my heat sheild. Im just curious if anyone's messed with header wrap and would be happy if ya'll could contribute your opinions on it?
-Melvin
 

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Personally, I don't know jack about this subject :!: However, here is something from the Thorley Headers website that might interest you.

Why does header wrap void the warranty?
Let’s pose this question: “Is it wise to put on a coat, in the desert, in the middle of summer?” With headers, it’s always summertime. You can imagine the effect the wrap has on the headers; it holds in heat and literally cooks the headers.
http://www.thorleyheaders.com/tech_faq2.html
 

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Totally a bad idea. The wrap holds in the heat and it weakens the metal very quickly. I've seen people take the wrap off and the header just crumbled away.
 

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As Muchbzy said, header wrap will own your header real quick. It is pretty much a race only thing. So basically, do it if you only want your header to last a year or so. Not worth it, IMO.
 

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That all depends on the type of header. If you have an uncoated mild tubular steel header, forget about it, it will rot it out in no time. If its ceramic coated, forget about it, the wrap will supposedly destroy the coating. It will at very least void whatever warrentee you have on the coating. Now if its just a stock cast iron exhaust manifold we're talking about here, which I assume you have as you have the heat sheilds still, then it should be ok, but it will probably put more stress on it and in time you may develope cracks or serious rust damage. They are cheap and plentiful though, and built damn tough so if it was me, I'd do it. Now theres stainless headers, I'd think a good stainless header could survive with wrap on it for quite awhile, but it would be a bit of a gamble. And don't ditch your heat shields if heat is your problem, they actually do quite a bit and you could use wrap underneath them too. But as for your power problem, that problem is cause by going to an open element filter, your sucking in even more hot engine bay air then stock now. This is why I'm a big beliver in cold air intakes and stock air boxes. You need to find a cold air supply for your engine to breath and you need to isolate it from the hot air being sucked through your rad.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You were right suprafiend, I will be using them on my stock headers because I cant afford to get new one's... The only reason why Im thinking of wrapping my headers is because I plan to swap a 7M by next spring.. I'm not planning to keep my motor in for long. But as for heat, I'm thinking about getting a heat sheild for my filter, they sell them on 935motorsports.com for about $15. But yes it would be nice to have a cold air set up.. The only thing bad about that is that I live in Wa. And last year my freinds 02-03 Celica had cold air and she flooded her motor because she didn't know that her intake had sucked in a bunch of water.. But if I do decide to get the Header wrap, i'll post updates eventually on here.. Thanx for the info..
-Melvin
 

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noone said a cold air setup has to have an intake pipe at the bottom of the car. Take if from the hole right next to the stock airbox, its the perfect source. Its protected by the wheel well liner but theres still enough openings that it has a continous supply of fresh air.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sorry I'll admit I was a bit into Honda's before.. Everytime i think of cold air i think about AEM.. But yea, I may just look into modifying my stock air box to block the heat from the rad and engine.. But I allready have my filter next to the wheel well openening on the right hand side...
(Drivers POV) I also get a beautiful whistle as i acclerate from 3-4grand.. I dont know if its the air thats being sucked from the little hole or if it's just my filter cone making the noise, sounds appealing and it's heard from other cars.
-Melvin
 

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I wrapped mine a few months ago. Everyone told me about the damage it could cause and stuff but I did it anyways just to see. Plus I really don't mind if these are destroyed as I'll just get some better ones next time.
I had got cheap uncoated pacesetter headers (I needed something quick cause my exhaust manifold was cracked, just needed something cheap) and they really got rusty and junk. I sanded them down, painted them with some high temp paint from thermotec and wrapped them, then sealed them with the high temp paint. I'll take a pic when I get some film, my digital cam sucks. It was a pain in the ass wrapping them though. I only suggest you even try it if you have a friend who can help and don't mind using a crow bar on your headers. :!:
It wouldn't be hard at all to wrap the stock exhaust manifold I'm sure. They do have thermal blankets you could get instead of wrap if you wanted to go that route. It's easy and although I'm not sure you MIGHT be able to reuse the blanket if you take it off in case you do do a swap you could reuse it. Also if you do decide to wrap them or use a blanket keep the heatshield anyways. No use throwing away added heat protection if it can be used.

side note. What you have aren't called headers. What's on there from stock is just called an exhaust manifold.
 

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one thing I've considered is using thermal sleaves (I guess what your calling blankets) on ceramic headers. It was my understanding that its the wrap being pressed into the coating that does the coating in, so the sleaves that sit loose on them (except where they're clamped on) might be alright. But I have heard from some people that its the heat concentration that kills the coating when wrapped so it might not be any better. I'd like to know but I don't think I want to experiment on my purty new coated header. I'll be sticking with various heat shields on this car.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So would you consider this a better move to spray my exhaust manifold with some sort of high temp. coat.. I have several bottles of intense heat coatings in my garage.. I'm thinking of doing that to my exhaust manifold before I decide to wrap them.. Oh and if I decide to keep my heat shield, would it be a good idea to pain it to match my engine scheme.. They're hight temp. spray paints as well.. I have also heard of other people painting directly over the header wrap with high temp paint.. I'm thinking of just clear coating them with high temp paint.
-Melvin "aka" MeLLy
 

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There are thermal sleeves for headers, but they also have thermal blankets that wrap whole exhaust manifolds or headers.

As for the paint what is it rated at? The duplicolour type of 500* paint prolly won't work for an exhaust manifold. I tried that when I first got my headers and it didn't last very long. Prolly won't be a good idea to use that under the wrap or on top as it wouldn't last. The stuff I used is from thermotec. It's rated at 1200* continuous and 2000* F peak. So far so good and since it's meant for this type of application it should hold. It's actually also meant to be used as a sealant for the header wrap which is what I've done. I'll try getting pics up soon.

If you keep your stock exhaust manifold keep the heat shield, no used scrapping it unless you get headers, cause then it wouldn't fit. Painting it to match is up to you.
 

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Ceramic coatings

I've heard a number of bad stories about header/exhaust wrap, and I won't use it. I will, however, use ceramic coatings, which come in two flavors locally. 1300 degree, cermachrome, and 2,000 degree satin finish. The cermachrome looks just like the coating on my intake pipes: http://rabidchimp.com/mk2intakepipe.htm
The satin finish looks like what my turbo kit's turbine housing and manifold:
http://rabidchimp.com/mk2turbokit.htm Sorry, I don't have a close up, but can take one upon request. Aside from black (satin finish), I offer blue, titanium color, and fresh blast, which resembles a flat silver. The satin finish is cheaper than the cermachrome coating. Here are some prices:

Exhaust Component: Satin Finish Cermachrome

Inline Six Cylinder:
Stock manifold (including turbo) $120 $155
Long tube header- $190 $240

Of course, I can get your heat shields ceramic coated as well. Current turn around time for these items is 7-10 working days.

Catch you all later!
-Aaron
 

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Thermal header wrap was designed primarily for racing applications where open headers are used. The wrap helps retain exhaust gas heat within the header piping, which in turn helps promote prolonged thermal heat expansion of the exhaust gases which can help improve flow velocity and better scavenging from the header(s), as well as aid in more efficient turbo spooling. The important thing to consider, IMHO, is to never use header wrap on anything but an open header where backpressure is kept at a bare minimum. Open headers breathe more freely than when connected to a full exhaust system and that reduces the maximum operating temp. of the header(s). The operating temp. of a wrapped header connected to a full exhaust system is significantly higher and the extremely high temp. can literally oxidize and disintegrate the metal piping of the header(s). The exhaust ports, exhaust valves, and turbo are exposed to this excess heat as well. Not at all a good thing, especially with an aluminum cylinder head. Wrapped headers need to be kept unobstructed and allowed to breathe freely in order to prevent damage from severe heat retention.
Ceramic coating and/or heat shielding would be the better way to go with a full exhaust system since ceramic is a good insulator but also allows for "some" heat to be released through the walls of the header piping and turbine housing of the turbo.
HTH!!
 

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I wrapped mine (it was a pacesetter header) and i noticed a decrease in temperature on my gauge (stock dash guage). So it does work. I had the header on there maybe 1 year before pulling it and selling it to someone on the list about 2 years ago.

As for the long term effects i am not sure first hand. remember if you get the Pacesetters that the o2 sensor needs to be relocated.

Wrapping the headers can be done by yourself but its not fun. I would recomend a friend and an hour or two. Depending on how fast you can work.

The cld air intake will significantly help over wrapping the header in my opinion.
 

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You could partially wrap to get an intermediate temperqture.
If you had a strip of wrap 2" wide you could leave say a 1/2"
to 1" gap between turns. Also, if you attached a thermocouple
to the header you should be able to find a gap size to give a
safe operating temperature.

StanS
 
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