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Tip on V8 swap w/rear sump?

10K views 30 replies 15 participants last post by  rycrok8 
#1 ·
I met a guy a while back with a 400 small block chevy in his 84 or 85 supra. He said for him to keep it rear sump he unbolted the front cross member and turned it around and bolted it back on. Then he put the steering rack back on the rear of the cross member in its stock location but had to make new holes for it to bolt up.. I dont have the exact details if he had to mod the cross member or not but it might lead to a different direction for anyone thinking about a SBC swap.

HTH. Ok...back to the 7mgte section I go.

Jake
 
#2 ·
For those reading this please disregard this, as it sits right now with the rear sump pan and fliped cross member you CAN NOT put the steering rack in its stock location. The front sump pans are the only good way to make this swap work......Nothing personal to Jake as it was hearsay on his part but from expeirence and just going to the garage to verify this statement it wont work like stated.
 
#3 ·
:rolleyes:....hmmm....i went a seen this car myself..popped the hood an looked...just because i didnt take measurements and do a whole thread on it doesnt mean it doesnt work...Is your word gospil or something?

oh well...im done know it all.
 
#6 ·
Have a look at the stock setup.

If you turn the crossmember around, and leave the steering rack in the STOCK position you will gain NOTHING.





If you want to run a rear sump you'll have to turn the crossmember around AND move the steering rack to the front of the crossmember (and swap over all the steering arms etc, IF its even possible...).
 
#15 ·
well the way that pan looks its rear sump but the sump is further back then normal and since its only a 4qt pan it isnt likely that deep. idk. i went looking for nova pans as you said stock was front sump on the old ones. guess they dont make aftermarket new oil pans for them. wierd.
 
#18 ·
Every successful v-8 MKII swap has one thing in common-a front sump engine. Old school small block chevs are rear sump. Forget flipping the crossmember, or making the car front steer with oe pieces, unless your car only needs to steer down the drag strip. 283/327 can be converted to front sump using a chevyII pan kit. Anything with the larger crank-needs mods to make front sump pan kit work. Trans mount depends on trans used-small blocks accept many types. Engine mount is simple-place engine in hole, fill in space with mount. There are no off-the-shelf kits/pieces. An LSx chevy motor with a gto pan is easier, more powerful, and already done.
 
#19 ·
I know this is an old thread, but wanted to correct inaccurate information. Not every V8 swap is front sump. Mine is a rear sump LT1.
Only thing I did to clear the pan was flip half of the power steering rack to run the hoses through the cross member and reroute the hoses. This gave me the clearance needed and tucked the engine in nicely over and around the crossmember. Had to pound in the fire wall here and there to fit the bell housing. Good-n-tight.
Fit up the T-56 and drove great last year.
 
#23 ·
I can take some newer ones tonight or tomorrow. I just posted the pics I have on my work computer from old emails i sent out.
The video has a vacuum leak that I've since fixed, runs really well for all that I've done to it w/o any computer tuning.
Still need to brace everything, lots of torque. :)
 
#24 ·
New pics added. Sorry, but I'm going to black from that two tone goodness. Too many scratches, rust spots to not touch it up and halt any rust. Only planning on driving in the summer so the Chicago salt wont' get at it anymore. I want to do a repaint to Azurite Black, but am just plain rattle canning to stop the rust and touch it up for now.
 
#27 ·
The link was above to my photobucket.
http://s304.photobucket.com/user/gre...y/1985 Supra
I can add some more details pics later. Maybe this weekend so check back in a couple days.
You can see some of what I did in the pics. I do have some customer motor mounts, so fitment will depend on where your engine is placed. There is a smaller gap close to the rack, but the dents/scratches in my pics are from squeezing it in and out so many times when I was fitting it all up.

I'm running the LT1 power steering pump and the high pressure braided lines and steel fittings.
There was a steel fitting that was hard to find to make the rack power and return lines to a -AN line.
Borgeson Universal Company P/N 925121 - Steering Box Adapters 16MM X 1.5 to -6AN. You'll need 2 and I think they come in pairs.

When flipping the 1/2 rack, the lines go through the cross member. Just undo the 4 bolts and twist. Obviously i had to drill two holes for the lines and fluid will leak out. As long as you line up the holes, it's fine. I initially drove the car without any operation problems, however, the steel lines I flared to go straight through to the cross memeber leaks. I think I did the wrong flare, or didn't tighten it down well enough. Since it's now IN the rack, its hard to get at. I'll have to cut an access hole, tighten/redo it and then weld it back up.
Does anyone know the flare and threads in the rack for these 2 middle rack lines?
I haven't had time to fix it, so the power steering pump just runs in a loop for now and I capped the rack at the power and return lines.
Driving it like this isn't bad which is why I haven't fixed it yet.
Drives like a V8 F-body w/o the powersteering.

Yes I understand that the holes in the cross member are taking out strength. however, they are not that large and as long as you are drilling circle holes instead of cutting out square sections, it's not an issue.
I'll probably weld in some extra bracing on the cross-member and a strut tower brace can't hurt with the extra weight in the front.
If you want a specific pic, let me know.
 
#28 ·
I guess as long as full range of motion is still there with the rack, I don't need any pics. When I go to pull my motor I can flip the rack, drill the holes and make new lines along with my pressure side. This will be a lot cheaper than modifying my oil pan enough to get the stock lines to work.

Thanks!
 
#30 ·
Probably a noob question but have to ask, are the power steering lines the only reason so many people say a rear sump v8 can't be done in our cars? And if so does that mean my car with a de-powered rack that has no lines at all would fit a rear sump v8 with relatively little trouble? I was always under the impression that once the engine was far back enough to clear the rack and cross member the next hurdle was hitting the fire wall and trans tunnel width. Cheers.
 
#31 ·
I did pound in the firewall and actually ended up cutting it and welding in some sheet to close the tunnel back up. Don't go too far, or you'll loose too much space for the interior Heating and cooling and might move the gas pedal if you go to wide. Had to pound out a couple spots to fit the T56 in there. you could drop the tail of the transmission, but I wanted it tucked way up. For the T56 i also had to do a larger clutch master (wilwood 7/8") to get enough hydraulic power. And the brake booster was converted to a 7" dual diaphragm to get it away from the shorty header. Both required custom drilling in the firewall.
The gas lines need to run up the middle to stay away from the exhaust that is now running on both sides of the engine.
Ended up with braided lines and all those fun AN fittings and aftermarket fuel pressure regulator, etc.
I also welded custom motor mounts.
 
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