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Just an FYI, the car first made about 138hp, and after changing air fuel mixture
And fuel pressure were were able to dial in the car. We did this for every race to make Sure it was set up correctly and nothing has changed . And based on lap times and race results this car was making power levels as shown if not on the understated side
 

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Both of those last 2 5ms have headers (and intakes) on them and are well sorted (and possibly refreshed at sometime?). The stock exhaust manifold is super restrictive, there's tons of torque gained from dropping that thing (speaking of boat anchors). 2nd, the fuel curves on those 5ms aren't too bad. Its super easy to open up flow "too much" for the stock ecu (afm really), and trigger horrible over fueling. I had 151/152 hp/tq on my old high miles 5m with similar mods, but no wideband at the time so no mucking around with the afm to correct the over fueling. I'm sure I could have gotten close to the 160 mark on both if I had played with fueling a little.

But as to your comment about why bother with a 6m, thats easy. Torque, and right where it matters. Big gains from 2000rpm to 3500rpm or so. A sorted 6m will have a flat torque curve that hits when the hammer drops and holds to about the same point as a 5m. Which will make the car much quicker. The peak numbers game is such bull shit. I hope one day manufacturers switch to a standardized "over time" torque rating. A big number that counts torque at 100 or 200 rpm increments from like 1000 to 10,000 or something. That's a number that would actually reflect how much acceleration to expect out of a motor.

And high miles doesn't mean much. The only thing that affects power is compression numbers, cam wear and the cleanliness of the internal passages of your combustion\intake\exhaust system. A motor that gets run often consistently will do a better job of maintaining good compression. And of course regular oil changes can keep the cams in good shape. A motor that has been taken apart and cleaned\refreshed can easily make just as good power as a rebuilt one if nothing was horribly out of spec on it.
 

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Agree on all your points especially the peak power, key to fast is a nice flat power band, making power all the way thru.
As a side note love my BMW for that reason great torgue curve
 

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Discussion Starter #145
I only have my old 5MGE to compare with, along with Wes Hetrick's car. Almost identical mods (I/H/E) and healthy engines and we only managed 144whp and 146whp respectively (IIRC)
 

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Forr the dyno pulls, I used this to tune the car, not chasing a number, it made what it made, just wanted to get the most out of it as configured
 

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NIce!
 

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Discussion Starter #150
Updated! I am jealous that your torque curve goes on for daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaays. Mine falls dramatically after peak =(
 

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Now that I finally scanned the dyno print out for Ms. Swan at the 2016 Supras in Vegas, and found this thread again. here's the dyno sheet.

Car is 99.9% stock. It only has a "Joe Blow's Muffler Shop" 2.5" cat back exhaust with a DynaMax muffler.

168,000 miles on the car, RedLine synthetic trans and diff lube, and Castrol semi-synthetic "High Mileage Engine" 10W-30 oil
 

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Yep, it's been screwing up for several days.

I read something today (Friday) about either one of the owners or one of the creators had been arrested on some charge, and that the site had gotten all wonky....
 
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