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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
No need for battery relocation these days, just get a lighter lithium in the stock slot and call it done in my opinion. Unless of course you are making room for piping or doing a wire tuck maybe. Those lenses look great. I love putting a towel down on the cooling panel and putting tools on it when i work under the hood, so nice.
Well I am thinking about making the leap to a 2jz-gte so i will need the room for piping, also with tthe spare tire well now empty, I was leaning of putting a smaller battery in there with one of these:

http://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/products/c0015/automaticbatterydisconnect/FR1051

install a nice momentary switch such as this:
http://www.amazon.com/Plasmaglow-11131-Momentary-Activator-Switch/dp/B00E5YNDN8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

Then i don't have to worry about the battery over the long winter months.
 

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Ah yeah, intercooler piping is a great reason to move the battery. You could do like seamus and move it to the washer bottle slot possibly though. That battery disconnect is great, but a simple mechanical one would work as well and you'd just have to pop the hatch to do it, and save yourself 100 bucks in the process. You could alternatively get yourself a battery tender lead like motorcycle guys do and you'll never have to worry about dead batteries again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
good idea on the battery relocation to the washer area - but i would like to keep that if i could.
I know the battery disconnect is available in a manual switch but that seems more like a "race car" type of thing to me and I like the idea of having it tucked away and just pushing a button to enable it, besides at this point another $100 or so its not a monumental investment any more. I still may wire up a battery tender too.
Gamble, I'm also looking at replicating your LED headlight conversion, where you ever able to get things squared away with "the fog lights and flash to pass does not work, nor does the high beam indicator." ?
 

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I honestly haven't messed with the fogs or highbeam indicator issue much. Flash to pass seems to work fine now though for some reason... It just doesn't bother me in the slightest. These lights are so much brighter/whiter than any other option out there for our sealed beams that i never mess with it. They are DOT approved and have a nice cut off that doesn't blind people either, which is a big deal for me. The fogs would be cool as DRL's i guess, but otherwise i don't miss em at all. They are so bright on high that they are about impossible not to notice just by looking out the windshield. The high beam indicator is not an issue with TX inspections either, so no worry for me there either. I literally just unbolted the sealed beams, hooked these up straight to the stock harness, and bolted em in. Other than my fruitless hour or so of troubleshooting those issues, i have done nothing else. I drove to the tail of the dragon and back with no issues, and continue driving it almost daily around town if you're looking for a longevity report. The lexan lenses still look as good as the day i got em, no chips, dings, scratches, or haziness or anything. Driving my other cars with crappy headlights it is immediately apparent how little the street signs reflect back at me, and how poor visibility in general is in comparison.

I think the issue is that the stock high beam indicator needs to see ground through the halogen element, if i'm reading the diagram correctly anyway, and the LED's do not provide that. The fog lights need to see the load of the halogens i think to let the relay kick on, which again the LED's don't provide since they use less than 1/2 the power of the stock halogens. I tried a few ways to manually rig stuff to work and gave up quickly... If you get a set i'll gladly compare notes though and start tinkering with em again til we get it sorted ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
WEll not much has happened lately, I still have a few things to work still and im just being lazy.

After i did the klearz install i went and "LED'd ALL THE THINGS", basically i changed the front marker lights and the back brake, turn and reverse bulbs to LED's .
Same as Tanya i picked them up here: superbright leds/
I also got a modified Flasher from here Flahser per this thread Thread

There is a strange squeak coming from the back right which comes and goes so i have to take the back brakes all apart again to track it down (I think its the dust cover rubbing the rotor) while I'm at that ill just put some new E-Brake pads on it as well.

After that i still want to move the battery to the Spare tire well, Im collecting parts for that,
A LED headlight conversion (and high beam / fog light de-bugging),
Re-do the sub box in the back - i accidentally built it backwards the last time and its far too tall - the idea this time is to keep it at or below the rear shock tower brace and make it more square.
after that maybe 2JZ time ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 · (Edited)
I removed all the old super crappy windowing tinting from the car, I ended up using the windex / trash bag/ sun method and it works pretty well, the tint came off in large enough hunks to make the job manageable without taking too much time. In the end it took about 4 hours for the back side windows and the hatch window. Obviously the hatch took longer because of the defroster,

After that i moved on to installing a set of rotor protectors for my front BBK from here:
BBK-rotor-protection
Painted them black and installed them - the fit is perfect. I will rest easier know that they are protected now.

Then I went ahead and put new spark plugs and wires. one.

Then, after all that, a little ride before sun down,

Pretty productive day all in all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 · (Edited)
New radio and replaced the cigarette lighter with a dual USB port


I have a extra radio housing but the cigarette lighter never worked - so i removed it and with a tiny bit of filing it fit perfect.
Getting the radio to fit was pretty straightforward one i found the factory radio brackets in the many boxes of parts i have laying aground.
The new radio also has Dual USB inputs which i ran to the glove box, a rear camera, which I will finish when i complete the battery relocation project.

One of the features of the new radio is android auto, so far Im liking it and it leaves my hands free to do the important stuff, like shift gears. :)
 

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Is that also a navigation radio?

I put a Kenwood head unit/nav unit in my Jeep last year.

It's "OK", but Idon't like having to use the touch screen for almost everything.....
 

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Nice work on the usb ports. I still plug misc stuff in that doesn't run off of USB from time to time so i can't do that, but yours came out clean.

Anroid Auto is very nifty, you can use your phone nav app and it is always up to date. The amount of cars i ride in that have built in nav that is out of date and unusable is absurd.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Finally got the header installed and re-licensed it again. So now that is was running again i fugued it was a good time to tear it apart again.
I have re-worked the entire sub-box set up and am in the process of re-locating the batter to the back.

i bount one of these battery disconnects
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/products/c0015/automaticbatterydisconnect/FR1051

when its complete it should disconnect the batter when the car is turned off.
to start it again, you turn the key to ACC, then push a momentary switch, then start it.
sounds easy - we will see how it works in real life :)

Stay Tuned,
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 · (Edited)
Any concerns with losing radio presets and USB indexing each time you disconnect the battery?
Thats a good question, IF i remember correctly the radio "remembers" all its settings when the battery is disconnected, at least for a while. but if that is not the case there is one constant hot with leading to the momentary switch, so it should be no big deal to connect the memory wire for the radio to that wire as well.

The car has sat for almost almost two years, so ill have to learn how the radio works all over again as i only used it a hand-full of times before it sat.
 

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To me it looks like a single point failure that strands you. If you're only concerned about long term parking I'd invest in a ctek charger. That thing is a life changer for me.
 
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