And the 5m/7m ones are even more (and also don't fit very well).
Yeah I don't know about those $40 ones, that is awfully cheap. Let us know what you think of its build quality, and if you have problems with smoothness when you get it running, might want to try someone's oem. Sounds like JZ dampers should be replaced every 10 years or so, they don't seem to last like the M ones.
The problem with those undampened ones, is you won't necessarily be able to feel the difference in vibration. The risk is crankshaft failure sometime in the future. Its all sunshine and rainbows up till that point. There's plenty of debate on the subject on SupraForums and such if you search around, but most people's justifications are similar to Bubble's. I ran it for 5 years, it didn't break yet. The engineers that designed these motors put a little more science into it then that and determined that our cranks needed a damper for long term survival.
But performance wise, you will likely be unable to see any difference on a dyno with that aluminum one you have now and that ebay 40 oem style one. So why risk it. These motors are also mostly blueprinted from the factory, fitted bearings and all. Not all cranks come out of machining with the same clearances and there is a wide range of bearing sizes used to account for this. My point is, a crank that only needs pretty much 1 or 2 sizes from the factory is probably generating better harmonics then one that uses 4 to 6 different sizes. So buddy A who ran one for 5 years doesn't mean buddy B's engine is going to last the same.
yes i dont care about the weigth, still stock flywheel so no point messing with ligther pulleys lol.. chasing grams in front when i got 10kg too much at the fly is no point but it was cheap and looked good haha, ill just look for a replacement oem one... broke for now, used all salary on welding gas,new alu busings for subframe, fuel lines, AN fittings and alot of other small stuff...
mase some quick reinforment to hood.. seems sturdy
and finally painted it
needs to align everyting, its really bad now haha, will make quick realese for the bumper and hood
alos need to make mounts for grill and ligths, it just sits there for now hehe
touched up the wall a bit and made mounts for new tank and a shelf for the fuel pumps, running one 044 to the surge then twin 044 to engine, surge is welded into side of the tank with internal return..
wall looking better
ill have to get some 90 AN10 fittings and a alot of fuel lines ..
and started making this, the steel air intake under the spoiler, this is fitteed to the hatch so when i open the hatch i can still accses everything easy..
bit of shitti pic, did not take pic of it without rear window, only posted a video on instagram story haha, thinking of using door rubber seals to keep it tigth between
Looking good! Very curious what your weight balance will be like when this thing is done.
Yeah the weight loss by going ATI on a JZ pulley isn't nearly as big as it is with an M motor one. I also was able to toss the AC portion of the pulley to save more weight and space so there is that benefit too for us.
yes im also looking forward to see balance, im also going electric servo pump, thinking of getting a opel astra one, going to be rear mounted aswell
waiting on parts is soo pain
better pic of wall as its now
fianlly got my fuel hoses, still waiting for my fittings
mounted up the end of the exhaust.. unsure..
realisied i dont bother using money on a passanger seat so stock here i come haha, and its old school japan style
also saw a few options for extended shifter.. but i just made my own.. migth consider making a short shift spacer aswell to make the throw shorter but the stick still the same
hanbrake placed, and made mounts for the dash but not fixed it yet.. ill have to fix the seat rail first... migth have switches in the dash if i can reach when strapped down in my harness
hahathanks! solid mounts on jz is not bad tho, had it in my road car aswell. this is steel for rollcage so its plenty strong, finished mounts yesterday and i was able to lift the front of the car with the engine so i guess its strong
need to take out and fully weld aswell
i dont want digital guages so i came up with a sulution for Fuel pressure guage inside car, i think its neat
getting somewhere with the tank and pumps, still waiting on a few more AN fittings
did the AN for the catch tank aswell.. need a meter more of an10 hose bahhh
also my wastegate and FPR is shipped so soon i can mount that
You're a madman, I love it.
Are you re-doing the fuel cell specifically for the post-fan air shroud? You look like you've done enough fiberglass work to be able to fab it up out of that if you want it to have curves like your mock up, or even glass around your cardboard mock up.
Is the fan shroud back to the exit completely enclosed? If so you have to option of a few internal fins to straighten airflow. The area you're exiting the air to is kind of rough, majority of cars have a air speed dead spot basically right there.
Low speed = high pressure, so you're gonna have a problem with the outside air pushing back.
Are you going to have an undertray on this at all?
I guess I should edit to say why I asked that. If you were going to undertray this, then routing your air to the bottom of the car is actually the ideal option - especially if you were going to have some sort of diffuser.
yes i think i should have a undertray from diff to the rear but i dont think ill bother.. this is not a time attack car so i dont care haha, i know it will fell alot more planted in the rear considering the removed floor will make the air under the car come up into the booth probly... this is why i think the air will be trapped inside there and why i migth need a funell to push the hot air out..?
cut out my shelf for the pumps
removable metal straps for tank mount
new pump placement, need to go buy some new weld bungs for the alu tank...
still not finished with the tank mount, need some more bracing in the bottom but was so irritaed with bad lights in the shop i just had to swap them..
new and fresh lights, lol my car looks white again
also had a massive order from driftmotion today.. rip bank account
That shroud (Funnel as you say) will still struggle to back exit. Also adding a floor back in will protect the pumps/lines from the fuel tank.
Something light and cheap like Alumalite on the bottom, at an angle like a diffuser and then you can bottom exit your radiator air, and the pressure will help with good airflow I think.
never orderd there before but seems good ,and alot of genuine toyota stuff, handy for us that dont have time to travel to toyota dealership.. only downside is shipping, since im in Europe
yes Texas i fully agree with u, making a functioning diffuser on this ride is pretty hard so i think ill get it going like this and test how bad it is that migth give me motivation for the job haha
soo more progress
hood is attached with quick release buttons on the hinges so can be removed quick but hinges also work.. latches in front now then allign all the fiberglass in the front some day.. not looking forward to that
finished last piece of tube front, and added quick mounts for the hood latches, needs to be reinfoced
longest hood ever haha
bougth a T4 flange to space my tubo up a bit to make enough room for oil return... now i need longer studs..
3.5" stainless exhaust arrived waiting on my 3-->3,5 stepup that i need rigth after my turbo
alu bushings for the rear subrame installed
also raises subframe 1,5cm so better roll center
made a box for swithces, not finshed at all
also made a relay holder but the shop did not have more than one 40A relay with fuse, i need ten
ohh, and got hold of AN10 and AN8 Aluminum weld ins for my tank relocation
haha i think alligning is the worst
acctualy i like the new supra, hoping someone will make some clean bumpers for it soon, a good drop and rims that sit flush and i think it looks good!
anyways, back to this old POS
Finally got my twin bosch 044 collector log
had to do some work to the pump holders for the collector to fit and its going to be filter rigth after the collector, also going to get rid of that ugly blue filter holder haha, and need to redo the tank mounts since its not finished and not sitting even with the tank
and i need to weld new alu AN fittings to the tank.. alot left haha
finally got wastegate and fpr in mail aswell
this is hopefully a gopd combo for the 1j
time for some fab work, yeah i know i could have it closer to the rest but mehh
i really should get gas and rods for welding steel with my tig, im only migging.. but i know how to mig and trust my welds better with mig..
as u see i have good penetration...
3,5"--3" reducer for rigth after the turbo, outlet of turbo is 3" and i want 3,5" downpipe to be sure i dont get any backpressure
ohyee, all stainless, worlds straightest downpipe
need to make a filler for the tank, any ideas here? some weld on shit i could get ?
also another 86 haha
and hit a moose with my Toyota van...
package from driftmotion is at the post office but i cant afford to pay the import taxes so i have to wait till i get my payment next week before i can pick ut up lol
hey, im all into drifting and i'v been trying out bmw for the last year, built a basic e36 for under 1000dollars and had alllot of fun it it, last drift event i took a hard hit and the car kinda looks like a bannana now.. so time to try to build a super cheap ma61 just to keep it toyota , i'v...
First and Foremost, I would like to thank the following for their efforts in my build:
DD Performance Research LLC - 6M-GTE Engine build and Hydra EMS Tuning and more...
Raptor Racing - Bought just about all the parts he sells
Rabid Chimp - Parts
Driftmotion - R154 Transmission Upgrade and...
Okay, here we go. This car has been a interesting thing for the past 3 months.
To introduce the car properly, it is (as the title suggests) a black 1984 p-type (the paint is a respray, the original color is a maroon/chocolate/brown color. It has 157k miles, transmission shifts ok (according to...
Any advice on the best way to fix this?
Trying to save my 86 spoiler and avoid hunting another one down.
I just got a clean hatch that I plan on transplanting my spoiler and glass onto then repainting.
I was thinking fiberglass Bondo?
Its hard to tell in the pic but the spoiler is also...