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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here we go again eh? Another damn kid with a problem lol.

I just realized the length of this post, so please bear with it, I'm sorry I drug it out, but hopefully it will help. I will do ANYTHING anyone can recommend. I am no slacker. I will do the damn thing.

Consider this my introduction please! My name's Cody. I call cigarettes snakes for some reason.
I don't smoke (since new years, not one) I don't do drugs. I'm joining the Navy to be a Linguist of some sort... this week. Don't know when I ship out though.

I didn't want to post this.. and I've worked hard on my car for awhile now, trying to fix this on my own.. but I'm running out of time to get my mkII 85 p type running good, ready for storage. Its gotta drive there because it has gotta be able to drive out.

I was driving normally for... and hour+. At the time and before the car ran great, always, no problems whatsoever engine wise, and then the engine dropped dead totally randomly, while cruising at about 30, 35mph. I was shocked, to be sure. It wouldn't start, but turned over fine.
5 months ago. Before summer. Right after I lost my job. :sadsmilie

I was on a mission at the time, left it at a library, got it towed home later.... <-- (b.s.)

My current sensory symptoms: Engine turns over and sounds fine/good, and turns at a normal speed. Knocking noise at the ecu/intake? Afm flap? Never noticed it until after trying to start it a few times at the library. Has done it since. Sounds like it wants to start.

Car was probably beat throughout its life pretty hard.. I couldn't help it lol... ran great while I had it though...164xxx miles. Idled great. Was in top shape. Drove for 6 months before this, maybe more. Recently replaced oil and oil filter with good oil... put some lucas oil 100% petroleum in there, tightened the valve covers, and fixed that damn pesky oil leak with that action.

(lol side story has anyone ever have their oil leak onto their alternator so much so that one of the magnets inside of the alternator fused with the plastic, and you only had half recharge capabilities.. and were 40 miles from home? 3500 rpms extends your life battery for about 15 minutes. fixed alternator for $35 (new magnet piece jawnny)). < fixed this and changed oil simultaneously.

Drove about 500 miles after that, so that's unrelated? I did see a thread about why lucas sucks.. and its probably true.. but the engine sounded fine, always. And in shop class in high school I was bored and read the lucas promotions, and turned the little gears, and thought it was good stuff. little did I know eh?

I suspected fuel pump immediately, because I'm a novice mechanic... so I replaced it. :duh: there went $160. Before I realized my mistake, all pissed off, i tossed away the box for the new pump, AND the old pump itself, without testing it! :32:

I could have used a nice 255lph walbro upgrade... cheaper too! damn my inexperience to hell!

Getting the fuel pump out I broke the fuel line.. loosening the banjo bolt at the fuel line, from the fuel pump harness/drop in tank/holster thing. The fuel line broke on the line side, not pump side.:duh: I cut the line, and bent flanges on both sides.
Diagram for fun:


/=( 5in )================================fuel filter here.
____/___ ^ five inch braided injector hose there ^fuel line there
| |_| |
|______|
^fuel tank and pump here


I fitted a 5/16 or 1/4 inch braided fuel injector hose (Will 10% ethanol eat through that hose? how fast?:sadsmilie .. didn't think of that problem at the time) It fit great with fuel injector hose clamps, with no leaks under pressure whatsoever.

Taking the fuel line off and replacing it with a new one was damn near impossible, because I had no help in this endeavor, and there were bolts above the transmission.. screw that I said. I'm sure I will have to soon tho. I want at least a 7m, or a very worked 5m. I'm considering rebuilding this.. but not for awhile I suppose.

I also replaced the fuel filter, and then bled the line w/ a paper clip (awesome idea, wish I knew b4..) to see if my flow was good up until the filter, it was, leaked everywhere. Awesome!

That's all back together now perfectly as can be, and I haven't messed with any farther up the line (injectors, fuel rail). (I dont know how to and don't have a pressure tester.. and I don't even know where the injectors are, or the cold start one is to be honest.)

Things I haven't checked:

I have not tried starting fluid, unsure where to spray exactly.. I know in the intake manifold, what is easiest way?
Injectors, fuel rail pressure.
Timing belt, camshaft, distributor.
Compression. I've never opened the engine and it sounds fine.
I haven't taken the cap of the distributor, or the timing belt cover.

So I read Tanya's sticky awhile ago, and realized I showed my lack of experience with mechanics in my efforts superbly. So, I got a multi-meter, and tested all my fuses (not my relays though, i've tried, but not sure how still. Help? I know you leave'm plugged in w/ ign on eng off...) and was stumped. All fuses were fine. (nrly but i replaced the bad ones)

Spark then!

I pulled my boot off the first cylinder plug, held it to my strut tower, turned the engine, nada. Checked #2, the same.
(front to back? 1,2,3,4,5,6? Is that the cylinder order?)

Checked the HT wire off the coil where it meets the distributor, and nothing. No spark arc to the distributor, or to the strut tower.

Checked the ignition coil's resistance... it read fine, primary and secondary. Then I checked the ignitor's voltage, perfect.

And that is where I am. I read earlier a good idea to swap ignitors temporarily to test.. but I don't see any Mk2s my way.... Well.. I saw a two tone blue one parked at a house once, and a grey one near my work 3 times but never again lol..Any offers? I'm 15 minutes from Philly. I'd pay gas! pm!

I thought it was my wires two days ago, which I am due to replace tomorrow. I didn't really understand resistance when I checked my stuff though, but what I do understand right now is that the wires need to be less than 25k ohms and have continuity. Which they do, all of them. I can't remember what they do have exactly, but it's more than 0/nada, or whatever. Like 3k. or 1k. So they're good, right?

They came with the car, I believe the guy I got it from said he had just replaced plugs and wires... But I still find myself meeting zuprax85 tomorrow for his ngks, and have some ngk g powers sitting in front of me I bought earlier...

I know I need to follow the tsrm's testing steps, but until today I thought the wires were bad... to be honest I thought the coil was bad too, but it wasn't, and now I have two...


I spent a lot of time learning today. As I do everyday on this site... but still I don't know where the distributor pick up coil is, or what it is. That I haven't looked up... but its bedtime now and I'm tired of editing... lol. I've got a new rotor for the distributor yet to be put on (big day tomorrow).

I've read every post I could find (besides the 3 tabs open now) and I'm pretty.. :32: frustrated. I'm sure you all know the feeling.

please help! thank you all. ~ Cody
 

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Holy $hit.
An engine only needs three things to run, right. Fuel, which you have (up to the engine anyways, spark, and air. Its not air, lol. Make sure all your fuses are good still: you said you replaced some 'bad' ones. A short could make a fuse blow, and if its an EFI fuse or something the engine will crank but not start. So eliminate that, and make sure it doesn't keep blowing fuses! Then test for spark. If there is no spark, test the distributor, etc. etc. You have to trace it back. IF it has spark by some miracle, then there is probably a fuel problem. That takes more finesse to fix, and I don't have much experience there.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
you did read my thread right? lol. I tested for spark. as for fuel.. I need a diagram.

People say so many different things about what an engine needs to run.

my shop teacher told me that an engine needs ignition, compression, fuel, and exhaust.

im pretty sure thats right. fuel isnt gas, its fuel/air mixture. under pressure it explodes, and then exits through the exhaust. thank you for your time still.
 

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ok dude these are gasoline engines not diesel you need the BOOM of and explosion in the cylinder to make it go so what makes boom air fuel and spark like paul12 said so take his advice.
 

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The Power stoke is not an explosion, its a rapid controlled burn. The expansion of the gasses forces the piston down.

I currently have a similar problem. Engine cranks, but wont start. In my case, i have no spark when I'm cranking.

I've had a lot of tips suggested to troubleshoot my problem located in my post:
http://forums.celicasupra.com/showthread.php?t=51745

Hope it helps out!
 

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The power stroke is not an explosion but you need the explosion to create the expansion of gasses. The method of getting the explosion is the basics of the fire tetrahedron. Fire is a living thing it need to breath (air) it needs to eat (gasoline) and it needs a spark to get going. The point of the matter though is the the advice given was rudely thrown back in paul12's face. After snake came on here begging for advice. The least he could have said is thank you i will try what you are saying. And not make it sound like the guy has no idea what he is talking about.
 

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ok for real people im not trying to be a dick but you need fuel, compression, spark, air (with no leaks in manifold), exhaust (that isn't plugged up) and oh make sure you prime the fuel system i have had this problem b4 and all it needed was primed (to do so) all you need to do is take your air filter off and stick a BIG screw driver into the afm (air flow meter) and turn the key on you will hear the pump run after that loosen the cold start injector feed hose (slowly) until there is no to little air coming out then tighten up feed hose then take screw driver out of afm and crank should start up unless you have a spark, timing, exhaust or air leak issue if you need help with this pm me i have done many 5m's and i will give you my number and i will explain to you step by step how to get your wheels going again oh and to any one that reads this and needs help with anything just pm me with your issue and i will do what i can to help any one of you and i hope i have solved your problem. PS if i come off like an ass i am sorry it is just my nature to help people with the info they need. :salute:
 

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lol why u didnt ask me?? i have a spare coil, ignitor, distribuitor, u named...look i have the 5mge running, just need to replace the fuel filter and put gas, last owner took every single drop *(sucker) and i didnt know it, so this morning im going to standard to get a fuel filter ( cause any autoparts store have it), then i have to install the clutch line and be done, so if everything goes right, ill go straight to your house and help u out, i need to drive the supra for the break in, so this is a good chance.

i guess i have your address in a pm, so call me later ok. again lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The Power stoke is not an explosion, its a rapid controlled burn. The expansion of the gasses forces the piston down.

I currently have a similar problem. Engine cranks, but wont start. In my case, i have no spark when I'm cranking.

I've had a lot of tips suggested to troubleshoot my problem located in my post:
http://forums.celicasupra.com/showthread.php?t=51745

Hope it helps out!
yeah i read that, and you taught me much about resistances. thats how I figured out I screwed up again. It is a rapid controlled burn though eh? so guess detonation is the same as an explosion? or is Rapid controlled burning the same as explosion? I thought it was the latter, but not now. thanks for clearing that up my man. Good luck with your problem too, Ill read it again and try to help. You did a damn good job with that multimeter though lol

ok dude these are gasoline engines not diesel you need the BOOM of and explosion in the cylinder to make it go so what makes boom air fuel and spark like paul12 said so take his advice.
ignition. I said that. wtf. and of course ill take his advice.
thank you again paul. not this guy tho lol syke jk thanks man. maybe im still wrong. the ignition meant spark. cause spark is kinda a beat work. spark where? ignition though, ignition goes down the the bone. and you cant have compression with a leaky cylinder of course. maybe you can actually.. but yeah. thanks everyone!

zuprax85 of course I wanted to ask you, and will in like 40 minutes. I decided to post really late though, so I didnt wanna call. I wasnt sure if you wanted to go the distance either, cause you just finished the rebuild. That guy is a beast! ok big day today anyone else with info lmk i'll be worken on it till darkness. checking cs every so often of course. Thank you all for responding!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ok for real people im not trying to be a dick but you need fuel, compression, spark, air (with no leaks in manifold), exhaust (that isn't plugged up) and oh make sure you prime the fuel system i have had this problem b4 and all it needed was primed (to do so) all you need to do is take your air filter off and stick a BIG screw driver into the afm (air flow meter) and turn the key on you will hear the pump run after that loosen the cold start injector feed hose (slowly) until there is no to little air coming out then tighten up feed hose then take screw driver out of afm and crank should start up unless you have a spark, timing, exhaust or air leak issue if you need help with this pm me i have done many 5m's and i will give you my number and i will explain to you step by step how to get your wheels going again oh and to any one that reads this and needs help with anything just pm me with your issue and i will do what i can to help any one of you and i hope i have solved your problem. PS if i come off like an ass i am sorry it is just my nature to help people with the info they need. :salute:
sir you are a gentleman and a scholar. thanks so much! ill definitely bleed that csi. problem is i dunno where it is. ill find it though in the haynes.
 

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what do i need to put a new timing belt on?
Time, a garage, or a place to work outside with now snow/sleet/gusty winds/hail, 19mm socket, 17 mm socket (both would be good to be 1/2in), 12mm socket, 10mm socket, socket wrench, 1/2in breaker bar, 1/2in torque wrench, something to hold the cam gears in place while tightening them, and timing light.

Oh yeah, you are going to need a new timing belt too, and it is a really good idea to also replace the timing belt tensioner (you can usually find a kit with both the belt and the tensioner).
 

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Snake,

I have gotten hooked on the TSRM:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK2/default.aspx

I used to buy nothing but Haynes manuals, but TSRM goes into such better detail and has more accurate information. It's hosted online and you can print whatever pages you need.

Good luck :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
awesome guys thanks. ive got the radiator out, and im about to slacken the drivebelts. I guess loosen the power steering cylinder for the one belt? hmm.

lol i just printed the tsrm on that section too. damn tensioner is 50 buckeroos..
 

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Replace timing belt, tensioner spring as above and pulley and 4 seals. Mention our group and get Toy parts from Jeff Watson 1-800-327-2087 at a discount ($179 shipped including timing belt. ) Should be good for a lot more than 100Kmi.

To test FP there's no need to place a screw driver into AFM flap since there's a 2 pin pendant connector next to AFM. Jump the connector and turn ignition on and fuel pump should run.
 

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Regarding the list of items needed to start, I would change:
fuel to: a combustible fuel mixture
spark to: spark at the right time

GL with the TB change
 
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