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U-Joint Replacement at home with welder

157 Views 1 Reply 2 Participants Last post by  gamble
For this method a mig or tig welder is required. Eye protection is always required.

Exhibit A is the driveshaft U-Joint with one side pressed, or persuaded to move with a heavy hammer, with the stakes knocked out. It helps to use a Dremel grinder wheel to weaken the stakes.

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A portable press was used with a good quality heavy duty socket on the bottom. This same socket will be used again.
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Size of diameter for reference.
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A nut was welded on to the U-Joint cup. Mig welder shown with the settings used. There is a Goldilocks size nut hence the size reference above. If my memory serves correct I think it was a 3/8" nut and bolt. A bolt with long threads was screwed into the nut with the socket, washer and nut. Tighten the nut down onto the socket and that pesky U-Joint should pop out.

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Installation of the new U-Joint was relatively easy compared to the removal. These are some part numbers that can be used for reference when purchasing new U-Joints. 430 10 / 43010, 37110 28150 / 3711028150, JLM 828 / JLM828. I bought mine on Ebay for $9.99 each delivered.
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Once everything was assembled I took both driveshafts to a local company and had them balanced for $100. Total cost was $145 for parts and balancing.
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Well done sir, thanks for sharing. Wonder if any of the u joints are a little better quality than others, and which to shoot for. If mine ever start howling or wobbling i'll be back to this thread in a jiffy.
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