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If memory serves, Sealed Power #VS841 intake, VS842 exhaust, but you had better check the #'s. These are stock replacement type. Should be able to order from parts house.
Does anyone know if there are aftermarket springs availible maybe crower, or compcam??
 

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If sbc valve springs will work, how much seat pressure can be run w/o leading to valvetrain wear? I just happen to have a "few" sets sitting around. AND my head is sitting on the workbench........................
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
what about lifters? or do they usually not go bad? cleaned out and work fine? the rocker arms may need replaced too but i'm not sure because my valvetrain is making a bit of noise... actually my valvetrain is the loudest part of the engine. when i do this i plan on replacing the cams with performance ones, new valve springs, rockerarms, and lifters. should i retorque the head to prevent getting a BHG? it only has 112k miles on it and still has perfect compression.

one more question. from the underside of the engine i hear something funny. it's not constant and it only happens like every 20 seconds and isn't loud. it sounds like someone has droped a few pebbels into the oilpan. like something moving around in it. if it was rod knock i'da thought it would be constant. my valvetrain noise is. it's kinda like a clacka clakca. like it's mechanical but it isn't constant.
 

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if it sounds liek pebbles. it is prolly rods. if you keep driving it it will get progressively worse if its rod knock.
william
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
williamb82 said:
if it sounds liek pebbles. it is prolly rods. if you keep driving it it will get progressively worse if its rod knock.
william
so riding the engine hard isn't a good idea to keep doing? the engine gets ridden hard it's whole running life except when it's cold...i'm not that mean. can it be fixed in these early stages before it becomes bad? how long would it take to become noticeable rod knock and how could this engine have gotten it...it's always got fresh oil. NEVER has overheated before. doesn't burn oil and never has and only has 112K miles.
 

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could have been dirt or something in the engine that could have been hiding somewhere. in these early stages you should be able to polish the journals and new bearings provided the clearance is within spec. just be sure to measure the rods id in several places to be sure none are out of round. if you get on it hard it could be 1 pass and really bad rod knock, or it could be like my maroon mkiii n/a's old motor and have the slight tap for months, then go. hard to tell. but most likely its a rod knock.
william
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i was told that it could be piston slap or valvetrain noise leaking down the engine. my valvetrain is loud. i don't really think i'll be fixing this problem i just wanna know if it'll last me til summertime if i'm easy on it. i planned on either turboing this 5m or putting a newer engine and i think i'm going to go 7mgte
 

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i was told mine could have been piston slap too, but it was rod knock. but as i said. hard to tell how long it will last. btw, i have never heard any valvetrain noise on any ohc engine from the bottom of the car.
william
 

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i never thought of that. in that case the blue 83 i had that could have been the sound instead of a main knock. guess paul will find out when he does a rebuild later. the sound went away so guess the key could have sheared.
william
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
a few k ago i replaced the timing belt and just reused the crank pulley key and just torqued it down as good as i could since it's crossthreaded it tightens itself when the engine runs...i also reused to pully bolt...should i replace them?
 

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its cross threaded? thats bad. yeah, id say thats a good chance it could be the cause of the noise.
william
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
williamb82 said:
its cross threaded? thats bad. yeah, id say thats a good chance it could be the cause of the noise.
william
i mean it's reverse threaded. righty loosy lefty tighty.
 

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ok, wtf is wrong with your crank? 5m/6m/and 7m engines are normal threads.
william
 

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Wiliam is right.. the crank and bolt is not reverse threaded AND it will not tighten up by itself.. YOu will need a new crank and bolt.. or maybe you might get lucky re-tap the hole.. but I doubt those mangled threads will hold the required minimum of 169ft/lbs of torque.

PS: Always use a new bolt _ I know this from experience
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
they mayhave been right...i get all confused working under that hood some bolts face away from me and some face twards me some are down and some are up...righty tighty lefty loosy gets used ALOT by me.

but this car isn't bad. everything is metric and normal threads. my sisters 84 horizon(gonna get a turbo 2.2 est. 14 at the quartermile(much better then the 25 it ran last weekend)) has BOTH english and metric AND normal and reverse threads. i figured a car made with american and japanese parts would be a lil odd to work on consideering the year but damn.

wait now that i imagine it yeah it was lefty loosie. cuz i was afraid i'd hit my hand on the p/s pulley when it broke loose. ok so your supposed to put some sort of rod in the flywheel to hold it still? damn...the dealer isn't open on saturdays i don't think. should i replace the key as well?
 

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you only have to replace the key if its damaged. its ~$5 each. and the same key for the timing gear and the pulley.
william
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
okay i had an assistant(my g.f) press the gas down in 500rpm incriments while i listenend for the noise. it comes and goes at idle. it's hardly noticeable ae 1500 but constant. 2500 it's noticeable and constant and sounds like a constant rattling (like someone tapping the engine with a screwdriver constantly and really fast) weird thing is tho that i didn't notice the speed of the sound go up at all. maybe a little bit but nowhere near in tune with the engine. after that it dissapates behind natural engine noise. i didn't hear it at a steady 6k(gets kinda scary under there with an engine going that fast!) and when the gas was totally let off of at 6k i didn't hear anything but an engine slowing down. i can't feel any movement on the crany pully but i also didn't have asscessory belts off. the bolt isn't loose either.

i put in fresh oil(castol syntec 10w30) with the usual toyota oem filter.

you know what i haven't checked. it might be a rattle i've disconnected my compressor and taken it out the ac lines hang close to the engine and i wonder if they could be tapping it. doubt it but it's worht a try. it just gets me that the sound isn't there when the engine is decelerating and isn't variable per engine speed.
 
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