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1630 Views 14 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  StanS
When I First start my car(83 MKII) and Go In 1st-4th it makes a slight rattle noise and increases speed as RPMS rise . BUt then I stop and go again and the noise is gone.. is it my Valves that "self adust" ?... is this Normal?.. anyone got any idea??
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...let the oil pressure come up before doing anything?

The noise is pretty common with the 5M...I was told that it is caused by an air lock in the oil feed lines to the valve train. As the bubbles clear the noise stops then starts when the next bubble forms. Its a quirk of the 5m and most do it at sometime. I may be wrong though...stranger things have happened :lol: :roll:
depending on exactly what rattle noise your hearing, its probably the oil issue mentioned, and i belive that rattle is your valve lifters, which have been starved of oil overnight, and are rattling back and forth as they try to fill back up with oil.

someone correct me if i heard wrong on the reason for that... but anyways, my solution is to start the car and kill it, then start it again.
it seems to solve the problem by getting the air lock out of the regulator.
Try 10/40w oil if not using it already.
AND try a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil with your next oil change to help clean out the lash adjusters.
i have that loud valves problem but it's a constant lol i don't particularly care for it but oh well. i'm opening up my valve covers today to take a look. the reason it happens with the 5m is because the valvetrain gets oiled by the camshaft itself. there are little holes in the lobes that squirt oil out in there. air can get in there like it does in your heater core. sluge can cause you to lose a whole exhaust/intake valvetrain. without that flow thru the cam that side is screwed.
I had an oil filter collapse, a fram no less and experienced a constant valve noise until I installed a new filter, luckily I did not run the engine long until I brought it in and the problem was diagnosed. Hope this helps.
a recommendation to you brian. in order not to get that heppeninge go to a nearby dealer and buy a toyota filter. they have excelent filtering capacity and only cost 40 cents more then a fram toughguard filter. i got a set of 6 on ebay for 20 bucks. saved 6 bucks lol and i didn't have to run to the dealer.

at the dealer i think they are 589 or something. not much more then fram but the supertech ones(walmart brand) are $1.50, but the walmart ones have better filtering efficiency then the regular frams do and the same as the tough guard and x2 filters.
Fram filters are NOT good for high output motors, Do a search for dirt track websites and see what dirt trackers have to say about them, they have been responsible for numerous oil related mishaps. Run a Toyota, a Wix, or similar high quality filter..... you get what you pay for. Filters are too cheap to lose a motor over 4 or 5 bucks
i agree... i found that if i get a regular fram filter, theyre 5 bucks, and the parts place charges me full price.

i go to the toyota dealers near me, and i pay 7 bucks for the toyota filter, and most of the time the cutie at the till cuts me an employee discount, brought it down to 4.79 the last time i bought one. :D

so, my suggestion... make friends with your local toyota dealers, the employees there are more likely to be stable employees and work there for an extended period of time... you build a rapport with them, and often find yourself saving money.
Exactly & very well put!!!! Several dealers in my area already offer me discounts through various programs that they offer. And it's been happening for a very long time. 15 years ago, there was a dealer that I was going to all of the time, when I was getting parts for my 80 MA46 MKI Brownpra. Eventually, I started getting them at discounted prices. Came in handy for the more expensive items.

And yes, I'm only paying about ~$4 - $5 something for Toyota oil filters as well. Not $7.
After awhile, they get to know you both by name and appearance and treat you with VIP service. :lol: I've been buying Toyota parts from the same dealership since 1989, and through the same parts guy who is a good friend of mine. Sadly though, 14 years of friendship and I never had a clue that he was seriously ill with Croans Disease and Epilepsy. Very sad news!! He recently had to leave the dealership due to his chronic health problems and move closer to his family (older brother) in Tennesee. I wish him well and many thanks for his 25% discounts!! Thanks, Jerry S.!!! I still get a 25% discount on parts, but the rookies aren't quite as knowledgeable as Jerry.
Just curious, but is it the front most lash adjusters that clatter when you first start the engine, or all 12 adjusters? Hmmm....I wonder if the lash adjuster clatter would disappear if the engine were sitting level in the engine bay? 8)

Dave A. (Still bound and determined to find a photo of a Gran Prix race car from yesteryear with the 5M cylinder head design). :idea:
I was getting that rattling noise under load, untill one day it did it constantly when i was going about 50 and my motor died, come to find out my number 2 cylinder only has 35 on the compression chart. I think i have a bent valve but i don't know
pamper your baby when she's cold and bathe her in some syn oil.
i NEVER stress her when she's cold. i wait till 1000 rpm idle before she goes into gear. keep her under 2200rpm in 1st or second till water temp guage is about 10% from bottom. then third and less than 3000 rpm
till temp is 25% and then fourth till 40% (45% is normal operating for my car) and then a few miles in fifth after 45%. Now have fun and a long troublefree life.
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