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Is there even going to be an Vegas event this year? Pretty much everything here this year is cancelled now.
 

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It's still scheduled, and Miguel has said we're GO for SIV 2020!
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
Yep he just posted a GO update on supraforums. I have till Sept 20 to register. So I'll see where the build is closer to then and decide whether im close enough

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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
UPDATE:

I set a goal to get my supra running and driving for SIV 2020. It's aggressive and I have a lot to do. I won't get to everything that I ultimately want to do with this car.
Unfortunately this goal will not be met. The deadline to register to SIV was yesterday and I'm not confident enough I'll have the car running, driving and reliable enough to make the trip. Maybe next year I'll make it out. I'll keep plugging away at this build. Definitely still want to get it running and driving

Things accomplished:
  • Interior is about 90% back together. Thanks @PB for coming over to help one weekend. That really gave me a boost.
  • Sourced a sealed plastic battery box and installed it in the hatch area. I was previously going with an aluminum box but it just wasn't working. And I think a plastic box is safer so went with this one that is NHRA approved. With this new box, I have to relocate and install the fuse box. At this point, I may just need to source a new hatch board floor thing and start over. I could just make one i guess but it has a curve to it to fit the shape of the car which I think would be tricky to replicate.
  • Installed gas tank
  • Brake lines, fuel lines and gas tank vent line all connected and routed properly. I had to drop the transmission to get access to all the lines in the tranny tunnel to bolt them up into the brackets. I thought I could with tranny installed but there just isn't enough room. THEN, I couldn't get the transmission back into the car. So I was like F IT. I'm pulling the whole damn engine out again. Way easier to install them together. The upside to this fiasco was I was able to install my one piece driveshaft. Thanks @SilverMk2 for this piece. It bolted up beautifully. I tried to install it with the motor in the car and yeah that doesn't work. Seems like you either have to pull the diff and install DS, or pull motor/tranny and install together to meet up with DS.
  • Brake Master Cylinder installed, and bench bled. Brakes bled for all 4 wheels now.
  • Clutch Master Cylinder installed and bled. Need to bleed slave cylinder.
  • ECU wiring done. Got my boost controller and IAT Sensor wired in.
  • Installed Oil Catch Can
  • Installed Charcoal canister
  • A Bunch of other little things in the engine bay
TODO:
  • Bleed slave cylinder
  • Mount AFPR
  • Finish TPS adapter
  • Mount dipstick
  • Fabricate bracket and secure IS300 coil packs for COP setup
  • Install stock AFM
  • Install belts
  • Tach Adapter wiring - connect power wire
  • Finish interior
  • Wire gauges (boost gauge, AFR)
  • Mount Idle Speed Control Valve and make gasket
  • Install plastic Wheel Wells
  • Install Passenger Mirror
  • TIG Weld intercooler pipes
  • Final install of intercooler pipes (after TIG welding is done)
  • Install front end turn signals, fog lights, and header panel
  • Install Radiator and fan
  • Install exhaust
  • Fluids
  • Start Engine
  • Troubleshoot - leaks, issues
  • Front End wheel alignment
  • Modify wiper arms to fit modern wiper blades
 

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If you ever have your rear subframe out you could go ahead and modify it adding in an access plate where the driveshaft passes through it. Not needed for 2 piece, but yeah seen this mod a few times for folks with 1 piece shafts, and just recently some great pics in this post: MtyMseHarmer's 82 P-Type 1UZFE Swapped Autocross Build
 

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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
I just noticed the title of my build thread here was updated and the "******" is blocked out. Is the man censoring my posts now? Or was there a forum update that blocks out certain words? My last name is white hence my user name and title of the build. Anyone have insight?

I will post a full update on my car soon. Short update is its back on the road, registered and legal to drive!

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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
I just noticed the title of my build thread here was updated and the "**" is blocked out. Is the man censoring my posts now? Or was there a forum update that blocks out certain words? My last name is white hence my user name and title of the build. Anyone have insight?

I will post a full update on my car soon. Short update is its back on the road, registered and legal to drive!

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Okay must be a forum update. W-h-i-t-e-y. Why is that blocked????

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Okay must be a forum update. W-h-i-t-e-y. Why is that blocked????

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I'll take a SWAG and say their automatic software flagged it as "Inappropriate, non-PC, possibly racist".

Welcome to the PC world.....

- Jim
 

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If you ever have your rear subframe out you could go ahead and modify it adding in an access plate where the driveshaft passes through it. Not needed for 2 piece, but yeah seen this mod a few times for folks with 1 piece shafts, and just recently some great pics in this post: MtyMseHarmer's 82 P-Type 1UZFE Swapped Autocross Build
Gamble, after reading this, I remembered Jake had it on his 83 "Wicked Felina" See here #116:
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
Been a while since I updated the build thread. I got the car back on the road right around last Christmas. I completed most of my TODO items. I 'm at a point where the motor is running damn near perfectly. There's a couple issues I'm chasing at the moment.

RADIATOR
My aluminum radiator sprung a leak and continue to have fitment issues using the stock 7MGTE fan clutch assembly. I posted a help another thread about that -> Wizard aluminum radiator / clutch fan on a 7mgte

OIL LEAKS
I contacted our trusted Toyota parts manager from Vancouver Toyota @ra24man Mark Sherman to replace the valve cover gaskets. I thought my issue was using cheap gaskets that come with those engine gasket kits. But Mark guided me to another possible cause which is the those hex plugs on top of the head in the spark plug galley area. There are 4 total that seal oil. Anyway, I'm running the IS300 COP mod and not using the cylinder head cover that goes across the spark plug galley (the IS300 coil packs don't fit). So Mark advised to use some sealant round those hex plugs. So did that and we'll see if that fixes the leaks. I didn't realize the cover actually sealed anything. I thought it's just cosmetic and keeps dirt out of the spark plug area. Long term, I need to fabricate some sort of hold down bracket for the coil on plugs. Right now they sort of just hold themselves which is not very secure.

CATCH CAN
Need to relocate the catch can. I mounted it near the wiper motor and wasn't thinking and the passenger hood strut doesn't clear it. DUH. Currently the set up is I've got both valve covers running straight to the catch can and then vents to atmosphere through one of those little filters on top. I think I'm going to change the set up completely to a sealed system similar to the stock 7MGTE setup but with a catch can obviously. Current thought process is run a hose off the valve covers, tee them into the catch can port 1, then from catch can port 2 to accordion hose, then have another hose I guess tee'd off valve covers that runs to the intake manifold somewhere (maybe I don't need this piece?). I've researched this and never got a clear answer. Some people say vent to atmosphere; others say go with a sealed system and use a vacuum source so that the rings seat and seal properly. I figure Toyota engineers are pretty smart and will try to align to their design as much as possible.

ALIGNMENT
Car has been apart so many times including the entire front cross member. Figure it's a good time to get things aligned properly. Will do this once car is running reliably.

That's about it for now. My goal for now is just to get the car running reliably in stockish form and enjoy it. Maybe take it to some car shows and cruise around. After that I will look into possibly tuning the engine more. At some point down the road, I want to go full standalone and make some more power.
 
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Bremerton stated that racers HAD to run a catch can for oil vapors, etc. I bought a Chinese one. MISTAKE! Leaks vacuum all over! Doesn't work very well, anyway.5MGE.
Next to CC:
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
Bremerton stated that racers HAD to run a catch can for oil vapors, etc. I bought a Chinese one. MISTAKE! Leaks vacuum all over! Doesn't work very well, anyway.5MGE.
Next to CC:
Nice dude! That's the exact spot I'm thinking of. Is your car an auto? I don't see a clutch master cylinder reservoir in that spot. That's the only issue I can see with my setup. I've got a manual clutch reservoir there so space is a bit tight. I deleted the cruise control so I've got a little more room in that area. And my Catch Can is almost too tall that it may foul with the hood. I COULD cut a hole in the engine bay and drop it down more. BUT I really don't want to cut any more holes in the car. The other option would be to put near the stock battery location. I've got tons of room there now because battery and fuse box are now in the trunk. Only issue there is having to run super long hoses to make it all the way around to the valve covers. Decisions. Decisions.

You sure have a clean engine bay. I hope mine gets to that point after I paint it and get rid of all the bondo crap!
 

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Another sneaky place in inside the wheel well- Hide it! It will get dirty. Maybe a bag around it. Needs a drain. Tupperware?

Yes, I have Bondo crap!!!! Minor lack of luck, sometimes. Lack of talent in others.
 

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Discussion Starter · #134 ·
I took the car to get aligned at a local shop first part of May. They test drove the car without informing me and pulled it out front to give it back. Then I saw coolant pouring out the front of the car and I was like what the hell is this. I asked what happened and the tech was like I just took it for a quick drive and did a u-turn and came back. The clutch fan once again ate into the radiator near the top and punctured another hole. I’m guessing what happened is he either gunned it and got it sideways or just did an abrupt U-turn causing the motor to flex. So i can’t really blame the shop for this as I’ve been having radiator issues but they should have told me they were going to test drive the car. From now on, I am going to make sure no shop touches or drives my car without my approval and being in it.

Anyway time to switch to electric fans. In talking with Preston @PB, he suggested going to ford contour electric fans and graciously gave me a spare 7M non-turbo radiator he had laying around.

I got the fans and all components. I fabricated lower radiator mounts for a mk3 rad that bolts up to the stock mk2 mounting holes. I copied the idea from another forum member here doesn't appear to be active much anymore. He sold his mk2 a few years ago.




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I also sourced a set of mk3 upper rad mounts.

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The only part left for this rad setup is the wiring. I found this post on AMC forum that outlines the wiring and components pretty well. Apparently it’s a popular mod for those cars. https://theamcforum.com/forum/contour-electric-fan-install_topic100667.html

The AMC forum called for some components from various cars to make it all work. The thought is to use OEM parts that are reliable. With this setup, I'll get low and hi speed control for the fans based on a temperature sensor from a BMW. Low speed turns on at 195 degrees (same as the stock 7m thermostat opening temp) and High speed turns on at 210 degrees. Technically the way it works is the temp sensor switches at those temps and grounds out the relay to allow current to flow. The temp sensor has three wires, 1 ground for the low speed, 1 ground for the high speed and a sensor ground. So the relays will turn on when either of the temp sensor grounds are switched.

One of the parts in the post is to use a Volvo dual relay for the fan controls. I had some generic Bosch style relays laying around so I'm using those instead. The post also calls to wire both fan motors and the resistor all together with one 30A circuit breaker. I would like to use two relays for the fans that have it's own 30A circuit breaker in case one dies, I'll at least have one fan at all times. So I would need three relays total - one for each fan motor and one for the resistor to control the speed. The ford contour electric fan assembly comes with a built in resistor. Now, I haven't figured out how to wire in the resistor and the two fans with their own relays. Because obviously the resistor has to be wired into both fan motors in order to have hi and low speeds for both fans. So if I do that, I'll essentially be wiring the two fan motors together which defeats the purpose of using separate relays and circuit breakers to begin with. I would need two resistors, I think, in order to completely isolate the two fan motors. Does anyone have any ideas around this? I could be over thinking it. So at this point, I'm thinking of just using one relay and one circuit breaker for both fans like the AMC forum said to do and the way I believe Ford set it up on the contour.

Oh and also need to tap and drill into the water pump housing for the temp sensor. There's a open spot for it like it was made to go there.

Hopefully with this fan set up complete, i'll get the car back on the road.
 

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So if you leave the wiring as is on the fan unit itself, you still have redundancy in that if one fan fails the other is still getting power. You could try wiring the fans separately with a resistor to each one, but you'd need 4 relays instead of the 2 if you're trying to wire like the Volvo. Honestly I would wire with the Volvo unit for simplicity and space, those are oem quality units that should outlast us all and you can get replacement parts at AutoZone or wherever no problem too. That's a nice bit of kit there though, nice find. The soft start feature seems great, if a bit simple. What ECU are you running again? Why not switch these in with that? Then you could set one fan for low temp, both at high temp, and if anything fails just swap connectors or relays. Or set it to hit the resistor side for low, and full power for all the beans, with standard relays and a couple outputs on the ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter · #137 ·
I
So if you leave the wiring as is on the fan unit itself, you still have redundancy in that if one fan fails the other is still getting power. You could try wiring the fans separately with a resistor to each one, but you'd need 4 relays instead of the 2 if you're trying to wire like the Volvo. Honestly I would wire with the Volvo unit for simplicity and space, those are oem quality units that should outlast us all and you can get replacement parts at AutoZone or wherever no problem too. That's a nice bit of kit there though, nice find. The soft start feature seems great, if a bit simple. What ECU are you running again? Why not switch these in with that? Then you could set one fan for low temp, both at high temp, and if anything fails just swap connectors or relays. Or set it to hit the resistor side for low, and full power for all the beans, with standard relays and a couple outputs on the ECU.
I’m running the stock 7MGTE Ecu with an Ecu master piggy back. I’d have to look and see if the piggyback has ability to control fans. It does have 5v outputs that are configurable. But at this point I have the BMW temp switch. I’ll try that first and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #138 ·
UPDATE TIME:

After nearly two months of down time, I got the car back on the road. The Ford Contour electric fans are all wired in nicely and they actually turn on automatically when the car is warmed up. I drilled and tapped a BMW temp switch sensor threaded on the side of the 7m water outlet housing. There is an open spot next to the ECU temp sensor. It switches at 195F for low fan speed and 205F for high fan speed. So far it's only switched for low speed after some spirited driving around town and the temp gauge never moved past half way. It was 95 degrees outside in Dallas this past weekend so I'd say the set up is working pretty well. Also, the nice thing is it does keep running after the car is turned off to cool it down and it's only run a couple minutes if that after the car is off. I wired the relays for constant power. Eventually, I will upgrade to an aluminum 7M radiator in the future. I just wanted to get it running again. I just need to finish flushing the coolant system out and refill with RED coolant. I am running a used 7M rad that Preston gave me and want to make sure all the rust and crud is flushed out of it.

When driving the car, I did boost a little and noticed the car seems to be hitting fuel cut at about 5-6ibs of boost at round 3500-4000 RPM. I'm thinking I've got a boost leak somewhere. I can hear some sort of hissing on the intake manifold side of the motor during idle. I've checked all my IC pipes and all seems to be tight. The AFRs seem to be okay. I'm not leaning out or running pig rich based on visuals from the wideband gauged. I have not data logged the AFRs. Current setup.

Does anyone have any suggestions on where to go from here?

  • CT26 turbo with 57 trim upgrade
  • 3inch stainless steel exhaust from turbo all the way back
  • FFIM with 70mm throttle body
  • Upgraded Intercooler. Core dimensions = 23 inches x 11 5/8 inches X 3 inches thick. I'm not sure what brand. Here is a link that's pretty close to it.
  • Aftermarket BOV - no idea what brand. Looks like an HKS knock off as it has the HKS type flange with a snap ring. I don't know. It could be leaking. It has some sort of adjustment screw on it. No what idea that does?
  • Custom hard pipes. 2.5 inch turbo side and 3 inch intake side.
  • Stock ECU (I have a piggyback ECUMasters DET3 but currently have it disconnected to get the car running right on stock setup)
  • Stock 440CC injectors
  • Aeromotive AFPR - set to 43psi at idle
  • AEM Wideband O2 sensor and gauge

Electric Fans 1:

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Electric Fans 2:

Here you can see the BMW temp sensor installed on the side of the water outlet housing.

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BOV 1:

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BOV 2 with screw. What happens if I adjust this?


17678
 
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If you have the stock ECU do you get a flashing check engine light when you think its hitting boost cut? Pretty sure the stock 7M ECU does that from memory. If you have a boost gauge it should be pretty easy to determine if its over boosting. If it is I'd check the vacuum lines to the wastegate and make sure the gate is smooth.
 

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It's worth making a boost leak checking plug, basically a pvc pipe/cap with a schrader valve in the end, pressurize your system and see where it leaks. Excellent to hear that bad boy is out on the road though , well done.
 
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