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Is there even going to be an Vegas event this year? Pretty much everything here this year is cancelled now.
 

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It's still scheduled, and Miguel has said we're GO for SIV 2020!
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
Yep he just posted a GO update on supraforums. I have till Sept 20 to register. So I'll see where the build is closer to then and decide whether im close enough

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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
UPDATE:

I set a goal to get my supra running and driving for SIV 2020. It's aggressive and I have a lot to do. I won't get to everything that I ultimately want to do with this car.
Unfortunately this goal will not be met. The deadline to register to SIV was yesterday and I'm not confident enough I'll have the car running, driving and reliable enough to make the trip. Maybe next year I'll make it out. I'll keep plugging away at this build. Definitely still want to get it running and driving

Things accomplished:
  • Interior is about 90% back together. Thanks @PB for coming over to help one weekend. That really gave me a boost.
  • Sourced a sealed plastic battery box and installed it in the hatch area. I was previously going with an aluminum box but it just wasn't working. And I think a plastic box is safer so went with this one that is NHRA approved. With this new box, I have to relocate and install the fuse box. At this point, I may just need to source a new hatch board floor thing and start over. I could just make one i guess but it has a curve to it to fit the shape of the car which I think would be tricky to replicate.
  • Installed gas tank
  • Brake lines, fuel lines and gas tank vent line all connected and routed properly. I had to drop the transmission to get access to all the lines in the tranny tunnel to bolt them up into the brackets. I thought I could with tranny installed but there just isn't enough room. THEN, I couldn't get the transmission back into the car. So I was like F IT. I'm pulling the whole damn engine out again. Way easier to install them together. The upside to this fiasco was I was able to install my one piece driveshaft. Thanks @SilverMk2 for this piece. It bolted up beautifully. I tried to install it with the motor in the car and yeah that doesn't work. Seems like you either have to pull the diff and install DS, or pull motor/tranny and install together to meet up with DS.
  • Brake Master Cylinder installed, and bench bled. Brakes bled for all 4 wheels now.
  • Clutch Master Cylinder installed and bled. Need to bleed slave cylinder.
  • ECU wiring done. Got my boost controller and IAT Sensor wired in.
  • Installed Oil Catch Can
  • Installed Charcoal canister
  • A Bunch of other little things in the engine bay
TODO:
  • Bleed slave cylinder
  • Mount AFPR
  • Finish TPS adapter
  • Mount dipstick
  • Fabricate bracket and secure IS300 coil packs for COP setup
  • Install stock AFM
  • Install belts
  • Tach Adapter wiring - connect power wire
  • Finish interior
  • Wire gauges (boost gauge, AFR)
  • Mount Idle Speed Control Valve and make gasket
  • Install plastic Wheel Wells
  • Install Passenger Mirror
  • TIG Weld intercooler pipes
  • Final install of intercooler pipes (after TIG welding is done)
  • Install front end turn signals, fog lights, and header panel
  • Install Radiator and fan
  • Install exhaust
  • Fluids
  • Start Engine
  • Troubleshoot - leaks, issues
  • Front End wheel alignment
  • Modify wiper arms to fit modern wiper blades
 

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If you ever have your rear subframe out you could go ahead and modify it adding in an access plate where the driveshaft passes through it. Not needed for 2 piece, but yeah seen this mod a few times for folks with 1 piece shafts, and just recently some great pics in this post: MtyMseHarmer's 82 P-Type 1UZFE Swapped Autocross Build
 

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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
I just noticed the title of my build thread here was updated and the "******" is blocked out. Is the man censoring my posts now? Or was there a forum update that blocks out certain words? My last name is white hence my user name and title of the build. Anyone have insight?

I will post a full update on my car soon. Short update is its back on the road, registered and legal to drive!

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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
I just noticed the title of my build thread here was updated and the "**" is blocked out. Is the man censoring my posts now? Or was there a forum update that blocks out certain words? My last name is white hence my user name and title of the build. Anyone have insight?

I will post a full update on my car soon. Short update is its back on the road, registered and legal to drive!

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
Okay must be a forum update. W-h-i-t-e-y. Why is that blocked????

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Okay must be a forum update. W-h-i-t-e-y. Why is that blocked????

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I'll take a SWAG and say their automatic software flagged it as "Inappropriate, non-PC, possibly racist".

Welcome to the PC world.....

- Jim
 

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If you ever have your rear subframe out you could go ahead and modify it adding in an access plate where the driveshaft passes through it. Not needed for 2 piece, but yeah seen this mod a few times for folks with 1 piece shafts, and just recently some great pics in this post: MtyMseHarmer's 82 P-Type 1UZFE Swapped Autocross Build
Gamble, after reading this, I remembered Jake had it on his 83 "Wicked Felina" See here #116:
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
Been a while since I updated the build thread. I got the car back on the road right around last Christmas. I completed most of my TODO items. I 'm at a point where the motor is running damn near perfectly. There's a couple issues I'm chasing at the moment.

RADIATOR
My aluminum radiator sprung a leak and continue to have fitment issues using the stock 7MGTE fan clutch assembly. I posted a help another thread about that -> Wizard aluminum radiator / clutch fan on a 7mgte

OIL LEAKS
I contacted our trusted Toyota parts manager from Vancouver Toyota @ra24man Mark Sherman to replace the valve cover gaskets. I thought my issue was using cheap gaskets that come with those engine gasket kits. But Mark guided me to another possible cause which is the those hex plugs on top of the head in the spark plug galley area. There are 4 total that seal oil. Anyway, I'm running the IS300 COP mod and not using the cylinder head cover that goes across the spark plug galley (the IS300 coil packs don't fit). So Mark advised to use some sealant round those hex plugs. So did that and we'll see if that fixes the leaks. I didn't realize the cover actually sealed anything. I thought it's just cosmetic and keeps dirt out of the spark plug area. Long term, I need to fabricate some sort of hold down bracket for the coil on plugs. Right now they sort of just hold themselves which is not very secure.

CATCH CAN
Need to relocate the catch can. I mounted it near the wiper motor and wasn't thinking and the passenger hood strut doesn't clear it. DUH. Currently the set up is I've got both valve covers running straight to the catch can and then vents to atmosphere through one of those little filters on top. I think I'm going to change the set up completely to a sealed system similar to the stock 7MGTE setup but with a catch can obviously. Current thought process is run a hose off the valve covers, tee them into the catch can port 1, then from catch can port 2 to accordion hose, then have another hose I guess tee'd off valve covers that runs to the intake manifold somewhere (maybe I don't need this piece?). I've researched this and never got a clear answer. Some people say vent to atmosphere; others say go with a sealed system and use a vacuum source so that the rings seat and seal properly. I figure Toyota engineers are pretty smart and will try to align to their design as much as possible.

ALIGNMENT
Car has been apart so many times including the entire front cross member. Figure it's a good time to get things aligned properly. Will do this once car is running reliably.

That's about it for now. My goal for now is just to get the car running reliably in stockish form and enjoy it. Maybe take it to some car shows and cruise around. After that I will look into possibly tuning the engine more. At some point down the road, I want to go full standalone and make some more power.
 

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Bremerton stated that racers HAD to run a catch can for oil vapors, etc. I bought a Chinese one. MISTAKE! Leaks vacuum all over! Doesn't work very well, anyway.5MGE.
Next to CC:
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
Bremerton stated that racers HAD to run a catch can for oil vapors, etc. I bought a Chinese one. MISTAKE! Leaks vacuum all over! Doesn't work very well, anyway.5MGE.
Next to CC:
Nice dude! That's the exact spot I'm thinking of. Is your car an auto? I don't see a clutch master cylinder reservoir in that spot. That's the only issue I can see with my setup. I've got a manual clutch reservoir there so space is a bit tight. I deleted the cruise control so I've got a little more room in that area. And my Catch Can is almost too tall that it may foul with the hood. I COULD cut a hole in the engine bay and drop it down more. BUT I really don't want to cut any more holes in the car. The other option would be to put near the stock battery location. I've got tons of room there now because battery and fuse box are now in the trunk. Only issue there is having to run super long hoses to make it all the way around to the valve covers. Decisions. Decisions.

You sure have a clean engine bay. I hope mine gets to that point after I paint it and get rid of all the bondo crap!
 

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Another sneaky place in inside the wheel well- Hide it! It will get dirty. Maybe a bag around it. Needs a drain. Tupperware?

Yes, I have Bondo crap!!!! Minor lack of luck, sometimes. Lack of talent in others.
 
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