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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
If you have the stock ECU do you get a flashing check engine light when you think its hitting boost cut? Pretty sure the stock 7M ECU does that from memory. If you have a boost gauge it should be pretty easy to determine if its over boosting. If it is I'd check the vacuum lines to the wastegate and make sure the gate is smooth.
Good call. I'll pay more attention to the check engine light. I've been looking at the boost gauge and AFRs.

It's worth making a boost leak checking plug, basically a pvc pipe/cap with a schrader valve in the end, pressurize your system and see where it leaks. Excellent to hear that bad boy is out on the road though , well done.
Thanks man. I'll have to google your idea. Sounds easy enough but I need to see pictures so i can visualize it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
I just did a couple pulls. No check engine light. As soon as I get on it and boost up to 5psi I hit fuel cut or something is cutting out. So maybe it’s not hitting fuel cut. The afrs were 10 at full throttle. Almost like that’s too rich. I’ll check for vacuum leaks real good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #143 ·
I just did a couple pulls. No check engine light. As soon as I get on it and boost up to 5psi I hit fuel cut or something is cutting out. So maybe it’s not hitting fuel cut. The afrs were 10 at full throttle. Almost like that’s too rich. I’ll check for vacuum leaks real good.
I do have several tees off my vacuum lines on the intake manifold. Do the BOV and AFPR need a dedicated vacuum line?
 

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Discussion Starter · #144 ·
I rerouted the vacuum hoses and ran dedicated hoses to AFPR and BOV. The boost gauge and power steering have a tee running to the third vacuum source. Here’s a video of the car running. Sounds like there is a leak coming from intake

 

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What is the timing in that cell? If the timing is too far advanced, it will buck hard when you hit boost like fuel cut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
What is the timing in that cell? If the timing is too far advanced, it will buck hard when you hit boost like fuel cut.
Yeah that's exactly what it's doing..bucking hard especially in 3rd gear at WOT around 3500rpms. Again no check engine light. 2nd gear is not as bad but it does still break up a bit in the higher rpm range. I've got the timing set per TSRM at 10 degrees BTDC with TE1 and E1 jumped on check connector. Then confirmed ECU advances to around 12 degrees BTDC...just between the 15 and 10 marks on the crank pulley. I'll double check everything again. I've heard the crank pulley can wear over time and the marks dont really align anymore with piston travel. So technically, to get it TDC, I should verify a chopstick or something to make sure piston #1 truly is at TDC. There was a video online from some dude in australia that precisely measure TDC and I can't find it for the life of me.
 

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It may still be boost cut. I never got check engine lights for boost cut when i was on the stock 7mgte ecu. Id check for a boost leak though. Usually its the coupler on the compressor outlet that splits. You cant feel it. But once you take it off you can see the slice in it, usually right next to a clamp.
 
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