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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think this could be in the tech section and can be moved upon desire!

I know personally I have come up with quite a few ways of doing different jobs on my cars. The idea of this thread is to share the experiences you have made over the years and how ultimately you save yourself less time and effort during a job! The stuff they don't teach you in school.

For starters I will say one thing. For a long time I did all my mechanics jobs with simple hand tools, an extremely long breaker bar and lots of time. Over the years I have purchased better equipment and along the way I have picked up some really helpful tricks to get stuff done.

Since I got my air compressor and impact gun I could NEVER ever go back. Its amazing the amount of time you can save by using a good quality impact gun. Things like axle bolts are piece of cake now!


But really back to the tips.

PB Blast - Cannot live without it: best penetrating lubricant available in my opinion.

Ratchet keys - perfect for small areas that you cant fit a ratchet.

Stubborn brake bleeder nipple? How many times have they broken on you its frustrating. Heat the nipples till they are red and shoot PB blast at them to shock the metal.

Still no result? Reduce your impact gun to 8 mm. Heat the nipple until its red, spray the coldest water you can get at it and use the impact gun. So far I have had GREAT success with this method. If its going to break now is the time but NOTHING else will get it off at this point.

Impact gun on coil spring compressors or air ratchet. zing zing and they are compressed. Also the bolt to get the strut hat off, hit that with the impact gun.

Drop down sway bar links with ball joints. You put your ratchet on it and it turns the ball in the cup. IMPACT GUN that shit. Comes right off.

I'm an impact gun fanboy it has 1001 uses. But I only use it to REMOVE stuff. You can trust an impact gun to replace bolts for a few reasons. If you miss your threading your going to destroy the bolt before you know its cross threaded. And you have no idea what torque is being applied on the bolt.

Removing clipped CV axles - 2 long flat head screw drivers. Apply equal pressure on either side, apply gentle force. They pop out in your hand.

Taking apart a CV joint to replace the boot Cut off the boot, clean up the grease, put it upside down in a vice and give it one big shot around the perimeter of the bearing, the c-clip unfastens no problem.

Heating something where everything else around it is flammable or in the way. Spray it down with water, or there is a product you can get in the plumbing department made by berzomatic that is meant to spray around an area that you are welding a pipe. Fire proofs surfaces temporarily.

Cant get your car high enough with the jack to take down the transmission Take a set of wheels (steelies preferable) place 1 wheel on each side of the car. Jack up the car and place the wheels under the cars wheels. Take a cinder block and a piece of plywood, put your jack on it, jack up the car on each side individually a second time and slide a second wheel on top of the first one, rest the cars wheels on the steel wheels you stacked up. Tonnes of room and 100% safe because the car is resting on its wheels and not on jackstands.

Installing bearings on certain model solid axles.
Take the new bearing to the exhaust shop and pick up a piece of exhaust pipe the same diameter of the shell of the bearing to be able to tap it in place. If you dont find one ask the guy to put it on the machine and flare it to the right size. Obvioulsy this tube needs to be at least 2-3 feet long to clear the length of the axle itself when tapping on the bearing.

Buy a good quality brake tube flaring tool, spend double but then you wont curse and throw it at the wall after you flared 5 tubes and the block doesnt hold the tube anymore.

Make a good relationship with the owner of a small garage near your place: he'll save your ass when you need shit pressed or have some weird part that needs to be taken apart

:salute:
 

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Removing Stubborn Bolts Heat the surrounding metal with a propane/mapp/pencil torch for a few minutes, then using a can of computer duster turned upside-down spray the bolt, and just the bolt. Then use a breaker bar to get it loose. Similar to the Heat >> then use PB Blaster (which I second for being awesome).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've heard about that stuff but I haven't tried it myself yet. Its a blast of super cold liquid on a super hot bolt which makes perfect sense.

The idea is the shock factor, with the rate of expansion of the surrounding metal meeting sudden contraction of the cooled bolt the 2 surfaces pull apart! Science at its best.
 

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Long extensions make easy work of bellhousing/starter bolts.

Any time I have to pull the 5m I have a 24" extension, Taped wobbly, Short 14mm, and a flex head ratchet. Makes easy work of the job. Same thing for the starter. I unbolt from the front of the engine with a couple shorter extensions. Top bellhousing bolts come from under the car.
 

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Righty tighty lefty loosey

Sorry I had to :D
 

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Always use a dab of anti-seize on spark plug threads even in metal heads...


AND ALWAYS use jack stands, and wheel block/chocks AND keep the jack underneath the vehicle as well...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Long extensions make easy work of bellhousing/starter bolts.

Any time I have to pull the 5m I have a 24" extension, Taped wobbly, Short 14mm, and a flex head ratchet. Makes easy work of the job. Same thing for the starter. I unbolt from the front of the engine with a couple shorter extensions. Top bellhousing bolts come from under the car.
very true. When I took down the trans on the cressida I used to have I did use every extension I had to get to those bolts on top of the bell-housing. The combination of like 10 extensions gave it a gentle curve to place the 14mm socket straight on the bolt head.
 

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All you have to do on the transmission is let the tail sag down and go straight at the bolts with a long extension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I had to loosen the engine mounts as well, maybe the firewall on the cressida is made a little differently, just removing the transmission xmember wasn't enough to get to the top bolts. It was also an automatic, so the bellhousing could have been made differently as well.
 

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Always use a dab of anti-seize on spark plug threads even in metal heads...


AND ALWAYS use jack stands, and wheel block/chocks AND keep the jack underneath the vehicle as well...
I can't express how much I agree with putting Anti-Sieze on spark plugs. I lost the use of my Supra for about a week when I stripped out a spark plug hole from not using Anti-Sieze. End result: Borrowing a car for about 2 weeks while I removed the head after work, spending $75 or so for a Time-Sert steel bushing repair, and then reinstalling the head. HUGE PITA, and could have potentially cost me thousands of dollars in machine work if I had ruined my head. And all for the want of a dollop of Anti-Sieze.
 

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All you have to do on the transmission is let the tail sag down and go straight at the bolts with a long extension.
I have to loosen motor mount bolts-I have poly mounts:thumbsup:
  • Always use Jack Stands-Heres Why....
 

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How about using a REAL FU%#KING JACK?! LOL!

Snap-On wobble sockets FTMFW!
The wife bought me that jack-You understand what Im saying? She makes me a sandwich, best not give to the dog in plain view, eh?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
got a sludged up motor ? try adding in on3 qt ATF in stead of oil . trust me it works and wont mess up you motor .

I'm skeptical about this. I know and realize that ATF has a detergent in it but it doesn't have the same lubing properties that oil has...... The way I've heard it is that you put a little bit in your gas and it decrusts the top end of the motor in the same way as seafoam would. By adding ATF in the crank case you are in essence putting in a type of "synthetic" oil in there. Because syntec has detergents to clean the shit out of the inside of the motor. BUT for most of us that shit is whats keeping our oil in the engine and not on the floor. True story but don't ask how I know this because it would be a short conversation . :laugh:

ATF in the crankcase.........personally wouldn't do it :wtf:
 

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Produces same huge white cloud as Seafoam, also. Jamie, I personally have done the crankcase thing numerous times back in the day, yet have never heard of adding to fuel system. Interesting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Produces same huge white cloud as Seafoam, also. Jamie, I personally have done the crankcase thing numerous times back in the day, yet have never heard of adding to fuel system. Interesting.
Did you spring any leaks using that method? its not as harsh as synthetic oil?

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If it burns in the combustion chamber those detergents break up all the crusty crap blocking the passageways. My bro mentioned that his car was burning a bit of something but it wasn't blue. He couldn't figure it out but hey the car ran great. Except his transmission would start slipping once every few weeks and he needed to add some ATF. Mind boggling because there was never any spots on the floor.

This went on for about 6 months before he decided to bring it to a tranmission place. After a quick description of the problem it took the guy 2 minutes to tell him that one of the vaccum solenoids that was linked to the transmission was leaking internally, the engine in turn was siphoning transmission fluid into the intake and burning it off.

Cleaned the hell out of the engine. :naughty:
 
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