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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
i just picked up an 84 supra with a 5mge. I bought it because i want to do the 1jz swap.
I read thru all the stickies and saw some rather confusing information (hydro vs mechanical fan, hybrid clutch setups ect..)
Now i admit my knowledge of toyota engines is woeful at best but im a hech of a good wrench monkey, certified welder, and semi-pro level fabricator with access to all the fun toys!

That all being said i started looking *on ebay mostly* for 1jz swaps with harness, cpu, and 5 speeds. So far in my mind the front runner is a full front clip from a 89-92 1JZGTE JDM supra. Im attracted to it because its a full engine compartment, firewall, dash, suspension and body panels. Its a little under $1000 more than the identical engine, trans, ecu, and harness package. In my mind im justifying it because i can then use the radiator, intercooler, turbo piping, air box, igniter box, much less some after market parts still left on it... Also i can sell off the bits i don’t need to recoup some of my money...
(link if you want to see what’s all there)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260479137788&viewitem=&_trkparms=algo=LVI&its=I&otn=2&category=6763
Now here is my main question; with this clip what else would i need to buy to do the conversion?
- i suspect that the jdm supra has a rear or mid sump and id need the front sump oil pan conversion bits.
- I know i will also need to make a set of motor mount brackets and possibly trans mount bracket as well.
- also a 255lph fuel pump at the bare minimum
- and a bit of custom wire work (no issues here)
- I noticed in one of the stickies it said that when coupling a 1jz to a r152 trans you must use a JZA70 bell housing, 1JZGTE flywheel, 7M type clutch.... that seems a bit too much like work to me. I assume this is recommended so that you can use the stock mk II clutch system worth with the new transmission... if this is the case than couldn’t i just adapt the fire wall and clutch peddle to accept the jdm mk III master? Seems easier to me, especially seeing how if i get this clip i will have the parts right there at my finger tips?

lastly im wondering *because ive had projects nickel and dime me to death before* is there any reasion i should re-consider buying this front clip?
- will the turbo piping/exhaust interfere with a left hand drive steering column?
- is this a notoriously bad engine for the swap?
- is this seller a scam artist?
- am i not going to be able to get rid of the jdm stuff to recoup my $$ ?
- am i spending too much money for not enough parts to justify it?

i could go all day with my paranoia....
any thoughts?

BTW im not pipe dreaming on this….
Have money in bank and was tempted to click the buy it now icon for the last three hours now!
 

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and dont forget motor mounts i say buy it then just transfer everything over or go buy a 7mgte that has been built and put that in :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
and dont forget motor mounts i say buy it then just transfer everything over or go buy a 7mgte that has been built and put that in :)
yeah, i can use the stock 5m mounts and just get or make adaptor plates right? i thought thats what the deal was?
and im glad you brought this up...
i priced out how much 7mgte i can buildfor the same money, but (not being from the toyota background) ive been under the impression that the 7m is alot less reliable than the 1jz... this car is going to be my summer daily driver after all...
 

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Are you planning on freshening up the engine with new water pump, new gaskets, new seals, new timing belt, new tensioner etc etc...?
 

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I think, from hanging around here for many years, that the 7MGTE is pretty reliable once you move to a metal head gasket. Of course, the more power you try to get from one, the more unreliable they appear to become...
 

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ive been under the impression that the 7m is alot less reliable than the 1jz... this car is going to be my summer daily driver after all...
woo woo woo there buddy
the 7m is a very very reliable motor!!!
just ask you would be extremly happy with a 7mgte!
less work too!
7m's only have a problem blowing hg's but thats an easy fix
i think you would like a 7m better :) plus if you get one from a cressy it is a DROP IN :)

give me a call and we can chat :)


and no you need special motor mounts :)
 

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Add up whatever you think your going to need to spend, then double it. Add 10% to that and then add on 6months to the max ammont of time you think it's going to take.

That is if you want to do it rite and build it rite from the beginnng.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
give me a call and we can chat :)
i appreciate it man, but ima gonna have to hit you up some other time... work till i drop tonight...
Plus I thought the only things I needed for a 7mgte swap was harness,cpu, and engine? (use the 5 m oil pan, and motor mounts)
Are you planning on freshening up the engine with new water pump, new gaskets, new seals, new timing belt, new tensioner etc etc...?
i had planned on it... but then saw it was under 60k miles, so i would prolly do the timing belt, and tensioner and if the oil wasn’t sludge, and the coolant wasn’t gritty i was goanna re-torque the head (or just throw arp studs in there), and call it a done deal...
i like the way you think on it, but i was kinda referring more to what do i need to buy to physically get the swap in there.
EX: drive shaft? bell housing? motor mounts? smaller profile radiator fan so the monster can fit between the radiator and fire wall? some strange angle pipe that they only made during one production year that will bypass the usdm drive shaft perfectly so you can run the JDM motor without interference?
ok last one was getting carried away... but you get the idea ?
im looking for some one to spot the one thing i totally don’t know about/overlooked.
Add up whatever you think your going to need to spend, then double it. Add 10% to that and then add on 6months to the max amount of time you think it's going to take.

That is if you want to do it rite and build it rite from the beginning.
so very true on any project... that’s why i don’t plan on rushing it...
I have a bit of body work to do while collecting bits so that will keep me busy. I talked to a friend that does mkIII conversions and he said it will prolly run me about $5k when its all said and done… and I believe him, and am totally fine with that/ I expect it to run a bit more because of the generation gap.
 

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If you have the time, dropping by Damon's meet in PA in November would hook you up with a few people who have already done this (and with a little luck their cars, too!).
 

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For the money the front clip is a good deal but you still

need a lot more stuff.

Front sump upper & lower pan w/dipstick hard to find & $$

US spec mechanical waterpump

stock exhaust is very restrictive & should be replaced

auto trans crossmember from MK2

motor mounts

throttle cable

So for the extra money all you get is a radiator & intercooler.

I took out my AC so that is not a factor for me, that is why I

went with the Chaser 5 speed setup $2100.

6 months into this I have blown my budget $5000 and still need

at least another $2K. True I did do alot more than I orginally planned

but you get the idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
For the money the front clip is a good deal but you still

need a lot more stuff.

Front sump upper & lower pan w/dipstick hard to find & $$

US spec mechanical waterpump

stock exhaust is very restrictive & should be replaced

auto trans crossmember from MK2

motor mounts

throttle cable

So for the extra money all you get is a radiator & intercooler.

I took out my AC so that is not a factor for me, that is why I

went with the Chaser 5 speed setup $2100.

6 months into this I have blown my budget $5000 and still need

at least another $2K. True I did do alot more than I orginally planned

but you get the idea.
wonderfull information...
yeah one of the factors i was looking at was the oil pan, some swaps i was seeing had the correct ones..
couple of quick questions...
- why do i need the mechanical water pump?
- what mounts do i need modified 5m? 1jz?
- what throttle cable
- so if our not running AC you can stay with the stock 5m radiator? (im also not planning on using AC)
sorry if these things seem very simple, like i said, ive seen some of this mentioned but there isnt that much detal...
 

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As for the water pump the JDM version uses what they call a hydrofan

which has a litte resevoir to drive the fan motor instead of the US

type clutch type fan. It is a good system but is prone to leakage and

the fan pulley is different. (Look close at the first pic on the lt fwd

corner it looks like an extra power steering resevoir.) Most people

just change it now that the engine is out to save the possible

trouble latter. One of those since I'm at it deals, water pump, timing belt,

front & rear main seals.

The eng mounts since you say your in good with a welder the blueprints

are on the sticky section.

Also the power steering pump is on the wrong side so you new new longer

hoses.

Most people say to change the radiator because the MK2 is a little small

to handle the extra heat of the turbo motor.

throttle cable from mid 90's camry I don't rember which one exactly

4 or V6.

Ck the vendor section. Vancouver Toyota, Raptor Racing, I have dealt

with personally and are both top notch. Also try Driftmotion.com for parts
 

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I purchased an Aristo 1/2 cut, wasnt really worth it in the long run although I did strip it down real well and got alot of good hardware! There is still so many things that will never just bolt into our mk2's that its almost better to, if its cheaper, to get an engine, trans, harness, and ECU.




- why do i need the mechanical water pump?

Ill add in the fact that when it down leak it coats your engine with power steering fluid...yay!

- what mounts do i need modified 5m? 1jz?

You either need to make your own mounts from the block to the subframe or purchase some that multiple vendors sell. The mounts are one of the few items on my car I didnt fab myself, IMO it seems like alot more trouble than its worth.

- what throttle cable

Lokar cable, cut to fit, no guess work.

- so if our not running AC you can stay with the stock 5m radiator? (im also not planning on using AC)

Im going this route and am going to find out if its going to work. I am using a stock Mk4 clutch fan that I know moves ALOT of air. I was planning from day one to keep my AC, but due to limitations on the intercooler, oil cooler, and PS cooler it just wasnt possible unless I wanted to just start cramming stuff in there. I suppose you could remove the fan, bend the lines out of way and work around the dryer but...The Ac lines are still kinda in the way of IC tubing and any external oil cooler lines.
 

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.

In my humble opinion, you'll have more fun with the 1J than a 7M. Though, it's not a complete bolt in. But, it's not as hard as one thinks to mount it. Especially for a fabricator. Plus, it's a good solid platform to start with for bigger HP later on.

I think it's a good purchase. A tiny bit spendy, but you do get some cool extras.. The steering wheel, turbo timer, pedals, shift knob and CD deck... You could easily sell the suspension bar. Being a fabricator, some of the brackets and mounts you are worried about should be cake. The trans mount is super easy, even if it doesn't line up. A plate with some holes.

The front sump can be an adventure. Driftmotion has them for sale (Big $$). Every now and then you'll see them on Ebay for cheaper.

Do you know which transmission the clip has? Most likey it'll already have the R154 transmission, in which case the bellhousing is not an issue. Though, you might want to sport for a new clutch. ($500)

Most clips will flame cut the exhaust and driveshaft. Leaving you with the spline and the exhaust flange. Or, you can find the exhaust flange at a toyota dealership ($$) or exhaust shop. Make sure you get a new exhaust gasket ring (Driftmotion $10.00). I was able to make my own downpipe with a simple piece of 3" tubing with a 120 deg bend. Weld the flange on and it brings the exhaust down at the perfect angle. Once the engine a transmission are mounted, you can take a measurment and have your original drive shaft modified to have the spline welded on for cheap at a drive line shop (six-states distributing)

The JDM IC pipes probably won't fit. Pipes are pipes. I bought a generic 6 piece aluminum kit off ebay for cheap (4 bends, 2 straight), and cut and fit with the supplied couplings. A tig welder helps. Depending on the routing, you'll have to cut some holes in the bulkheads to get to the intercooler.

The stock 1J comes with wastegate(s), but a blow off valve adds to the fun.

A fuel regulator also helps. Not a crappy $40 E-bay score, but a quality one. I also bought a cheapy fuel in-line fuel filter from the local auto store. Something you can replace often without going broke.

I made my own throttle cable from the stock 1J. It's pretty simple if you have a longer cable. Under the pedal, cut the cable to size and add a locking clamp from a bicycle store (similar to bicycle brake cable clamps).

The wiring is the biggest challenge. I'm not even going to comment on that.

Good luck with your choice. :salute:
 

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In my humble opinion, you'll have more fun with the 1J than a 7M. Though, it's not a complete bolt in. But, it's not as hard as one thinks to mount it. Especially for a fabricator. Plus, it's a good solid platform to start with for bigger HP later on.

I think it's a good purchase. A tiny bit spendy, but you do get some cool extras.. The steering wheel, turbo timer, pedals, shift knob and CD deck... You could easily sell the suspension bar. Being a fabricator, some of the brackets and mounts you are worried about should be cake. The trans mount is super easy, even if it doesn't line up. A plate with some holes.

The front sump can be an adventure. Driftmotion has them for sale (Big $$). Every now and then you'll see them on Ebay for cheaper.

Do you know which transmission the clip has? Most likey it'll already have the R154 transmission, in which case the bellhousing is not an issue. Though, you might want to sport for a new clutch. ($500)

Most clips will flame cut the exhaust and driveshaft. Leaving you with the spline and the exhaust flange. Or, you can find the exhaust flange at a toyota dealership ($$) or exhaust shop. Make sure you get a new exhaust gasket ring (Driftmotion $10.00). I was able to make my own downpipe with a simple piece of 3" tubing with a 120 deg bend. Weld the flange on and it brings the exhaust down at the perfect angle. Once the engine a transmission are mounted, you can take a measurment and have your original drive shaft modified to have the spline welded on for cheap at a drive line shop (six-states distributing)

The JDM IC pipes probably won't fit. Pipes are pipes. I bought a generic 6 piece aluminum kit off ebay for cheap (4 bends, 2 straight), and cut and fit with the supplied couplings. A tig welder helps. Depending on the routing, you'll have to cut some holes in the bulkheads to get to the intercooler.

The stock 1J comes with wastegate(s), but a blow off valve adds to the fun.

A fuel regulator also helps. Not a crappy $40 E-bay score, but a quality one. I also bought a cheapy fuel in-line fuel filter from the local auto store. Something you can replace often without going broke.

I made my own throttle cable from the stock 1J. It's pretty simple if you have a longer cable. Under the pedal, cut the cable to size and add a locking clamp from a bicycle store (similar to bicycle brake cable clamps).

The wiring is the biggest challenge. I'm not even going to comment on that.

Good luck with your choice. :salute:

Biggest challenge is coming up with the money in the first place :runaway:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Biggest challenge is coming up with the money in the first place :runaway:
lol yeah
i dont know about the rest of you but i wouldnt be considering this if i didnt just sell my delsol for $3100, parts for $800, and buy my supra for $750!
seems to me the biggest ticket items in this swap are (aside form the engine/trans/wire harness/ ecu) is the front sump oil pan and new clutch!

but, i have a feeling, after i get the engine trans and all that noise, all the rest can be bought little by little (part a pay check)
 
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