Toyota Celica Supra Forum banner

1 - 20 of 107 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,

I have been working on this build for quite some time and figured it was time to put a build thread together. I have posted various threads and thing since i bought it and will reference previous threads so you all can get idea of what I've done and challenges faced and overcame.

I suppose I should start from the beginning. the VERY beginning. I purchased my first supra back in 2001. It was a MKIII from the original owner, very well kept, 93k miles. I was 19 and just starting college and had no idea what i was getting into. Long story short I went through two motors and called it quits. In 2003, I purchased a near mint 1985 MKII from original owner. I had a 6M swapped in and over tightened the alternator belt and ruptured the water pump pulley, car overheated and motor was toast. I took a hiatus from supras after that until two years ago.

I purchased my current 83 P-Type right here from this forum from a fellow member. It's hard to believe that was almost two years ago. I flew to Las Vegas, bought the car and drove it back home here in Dallas

http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?99026-83-P-type-W58-77K-no-rust

I did not waste any time when I got the car home. About a month later, I pulled the motor and transmission and posted them for sale. My goal at the time was to swap in a 2JZ.







But then I found a decent MK3 Turbo for sale here in Dallas and decided to pick that up and swap in the 7mgte motor. I also want to stay true to the M series motors and the 7m was the last in that line. Here's a couple pics.







I didn't waste any time and pulled the motor and tranny out of the mk3. This was around May 2016. The plan was to drop this straight into the mk2. I started doing some leak down testing and things, and noticed a few of the cylinders were leaking more than 20%. The car had over 200k miles and the previous owner didn't know much about it. I decided if I’m going to do this swap I better do it right the first time so I wouldn't have to pull the motor again. Also, the r154 transmission would not shift into first gear. I thought it was a shifter bushing so i bought BillyM's shift gasm kit and slapped that on but still wouldn't shift into first. Clearly the tranny had to be rebuilt and I also decided to have the motor rebuilt too.


I had the motor completely rebuilt to stock. New pistons, bored 0.020" over, connecting rods, bearings, oil pump (bought a new oil pump from a cressy for front sump set up). Block decked for metal head gasket. Head was completely gone through, new valve stem seals. No port or polish. Basically, just a stock refresh. my goal is 400-450whhp eventually on the 7m.

I got the motor back in August 2016.










Then, I tackled the wiring. At first, I sent off the 7m engine harness and the 5m engine harness to a guy recommended on the supraforums. He supposedly merged the two together. Little did i know that there are several connections you have to make on the chassis side for everything to work correctly. I got the harness back and nothing worked. So I decided to tackle the wiring myself. I purchased a used complete engine harness in very good condition. I had to replace a few of the connectors and run some new wires. I researched and researched and researched on how to make the conversion. I bought an 83 and 89 TEWD and went to studying. I found this thread here which made the wiring pretty simple. I converted my living room to a wiring harness factory for about two months and finally completed it. And guess what? It works!







And here is the first test drive of the swap completed.


Then, I had a custom exhaust fabricated. 3" stainless steel, mandrel bent from the downpipe back. NO cat.





At this point, I wanted to get the car ready for a road trip to Supras in Vegas. I upgraded the brakes to Q45/MPVs up front, stock rear brake refresh in the rear and AGXs all the way around. Then, new wheels and tires. I figured this should be enough to make a 1200 mile trip one way.

Test fitting my new wheels. I decided to go with XXR 529s. 17x16.25 in the front and 17x19.75 in the rear.



I replaced the inner and outer tie rods, ball joints and sway bar link bushings.






I posted a few threads about the brake upgrade and wheels.

Q45/MPV Brake Upgrade Sanity Check


Wheel Thread/Questions


I wanted to get the car ready for Supras in Vegas. Here's a cool shot of the scenic drive to Lake Mead.



Supras in Vegas was a blast and met a lot of great people and their cars. I got a lot of good ideas on upgrades and things. The only hiccup with the car on the trip was a coolant leak on the intake side. It only delayed us about a couple hours but got it fixed.

Then, after the trip, I changed the oil. After 2400 miles, the motor was fully broken in by now. Unfortunately I found metal shavings and coolant in the oil. I was like you gotta be kidding me. The car ran and drove great the whole trip. Well, I checked the head stud nuts and sure enough about half of them were loose. Meaning I checked each nut with my torque wrench to see if they were still tight at 90 ft-ibs. I jumped the gun and decided to pull the motor and inspect. I tore it all down to the bare block and looked at the cylinder walls, took off a couple of the main caps and checked the bearings. Everything looked fine. But the metal shavings in the oil was very concerning. So I decided to take the block and head over to the same machine shop that rebuilt it and had them look it over. Of course at this point I was well past the 1 year warranty. The guy said that my rod bearings were near toast and needed to be replaced. The motor must have been running very rich.

So current state of the car and plans from here:

1. motor is out and at machine shop. Getting new coated rod bearings, main bearings are being coated, flex hone each cylinder, new rings (since motor is being torn down may as well), adjust valves, weld AN fittings on valve covers, install washer inserts into head. This is to keep the head stud nuts from loosening.. you can read about this here

2. engine bay is stripped.. I mean completely. all wire harnesses, vacuum lines, relays, brake booster, heater valve. Everything is out. I am going to clean, fix a couple surface rust issues and repaint. Also, cut out the battery tray.

3. Interior is stripped. I broke one of the outlets to the heater core removing the hose so I was like crap guess i need to replace heater core. To do that you pretty much have to remove the entire dash. Then I decided to remove the whole A/C system and did some research and found inspiration from this thread. I like the idea of simplifying things and this goes along with cleaning up the engine bay. The auto ac system requires a ton of vacuum lines, valves and sensors. I want to convert the heater and whole system to a celica with no a/c from the factory.

4. Install sound deadening materials throughout interior - floor pans, panels, trunk, spare tire well, everything.

5. Relocate battery and fusebox from engine bay to trunk, tuck wires in engine bay. I went to my local pick n pull and grabbed the power cables, distribution block and negative cables from a BMW 3 series. Their batteries were mounted in the trunk from the factory and the cables and connections are very high quality. I don't want to see any wires at all. My goal is a clean engine bay with all motor like the hot rods.

6. Universal oil cooler kit. I want to ditch the stock 7m oil cooler, filter housing and everything. I've done a lot of research on this and seems like the kit driftmotion sells is the best way to go cost wise and seems to have everything needed. I can't seem to beat the price piecing one together myself.

7. I bought an ecumaster DET3 from a local guy who works at ecumaster here in dallas. He's going to wire it up for me. and i plan to get a tune once the car is back on the road. I will eventually install a boost controller, IAT, and convert to speed density, set up two step, install 680cc injectors and hopefully get my air fuel ratios in line. Really looking forward to this part of the build. Along with that I purchased an AFR kit from driftmotion.

8. I got a wild hair to convert the intake manifold over to a non-turbo mk3 7mge. I read about the ACIS system Toyota developed on these cars. Pretty interesting and wondered how it would perform on a turbo car. I posted a thread over on supramania about this. Ultimate goal would be FFIM but that's expensive and well im sure as you can tell i've spent quite a bit already.

9. Rebuild CT26 turbo. The turbo was leaking oil and blowing smoke. I bought a rebuild kit with the 360 upgraded thrust washer from driftmotion. I plan to tackle this myself. I'd like to upgrade to a 57 trim eventually. Driftmotion can do it for you but again I want to save cost. I need to do more research and may be able to upgrade the compressor wheel myself. Not sure though.

There's a bunch of other small projects I've done but I think that's enough for now. Any comments, suggestions, or feedback would be appreciated!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,282 Posts
You should skip that oil cooler kit and come up with one yourself, and try to use plates/adapters that aren't cast like those. Cast ones will just be a headache when they crack in short order.

Wait ecumaster has employees now? I thought it was just Zach there runnin a 1 man show? If not, good on him, solid product and solid support. I swear someday i'll install mine... If you've already got all the wiring out, why not just go full standalone instead of piggyback? The older units are barely more than det3's, and when you factor in cost of install and tuning, it is all negligible. You would no longer have to rely on two things working together. Plus then if you switch to a more modern motor later with VVTI it's a matter of adding a couple of wires and changing clips for sensors, instead of a complete do over. They'll run drive by wire throttle too which you can always upgrade to later, for really nice traction control closing the throttle instead of just killing spark.

IMO skip the ACIS stuff. Why adjust the intake piping length on a car that you are adding 15 feet of piping to? Lots of complexity to add for not a lot of gain i think, but i could be wrong. While you're in there cutting the battery box and doin that rust stuff, you could fab up a front mount and run a cheapie FFIM and cut your total piping in half though. If you do convert to FFIM i'd be interested in your old IC and piping of course.

As for turbo stuff, good on ya. I know a guy with a 57 trim layin around... Excellent post and work so far man, I still need to head up your way and check your beast out in person.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
You should skip that oil cooler kit and come up with one yourself, and try to use plates/adapters that aren't cast like those. Cast ones will just be a headache when they crack in short order.

Wait ecumaster has employees now? I thought it was just Zach there runnin a 1 man show? If not, good on him, solid product and solid support. I swear someday i'll install mine... If you've already got all the wiring out, why not just go full standalone instead of piggyback? The older units are barely more than det3's, and when you factor in cost of install and tuning, it is all negligible. You would no longer have to rely on two things working together. Plus then if you switch to a more modern motor later with VVTI it's a matter of adding a couple of wires and changing clips for sensors, instead of a complete do over. They'll run drive by wire throttle too which you can always upgrade to later, for really nice traction control closing the throttle instead of just killing spark.

IMO skip the ACIS stuff. Why adjust the intake piping length on a car that you are adding 15 feet of piping to? Lots of complexity to add for not a lot of gain i think, but i could be wrong. While you're in there cutting the battery box and doin that rust stuff, you could fab up a front mount and run a cheapie FFIM and cut your total piping in half though. If you do convert to FFIM i'd be interested in your old IC and piping of course.

As for turbo stuff, good on ya. I know a guy with a 57 trim layin around... Excellent post and work so far man, I still need to head up your way and check your beast out in person.
Yeah man you need to get up here soon. Thanks for the input. I'd like to know more details on your oil cooler suggestion and definitely would be interested in that 57 trim

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk
 

·
Founding Member
Joined
·
6,227 Posts
Good to read the update. Maybe we need to plan something in Dallas this year.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,280 Posts
Nice write up and car!

You listed rods under the new stuff section on your engine rebuild that failed. Usually people just reuse the stock rods and get them resized, though sometimes peeps skip that step or don't check the clearances on the rod bearings before buttoning it all up, which is a very common reason for a rod bearing failure. That and shitty oil pressure, how was yours? Its a good idea on 7mgtes to replace all of the piston squirters and the relief spring in the oil pump (if reusing) and the factory oil cooler sandwhich plate (if you're using it). If the springs in any of those 3 things have fallen under stock specs, your motor will have lower peak oil pressure then it should, even with a new pump.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Nice write up and car!

You listed rods under the new stuff section on your engine rebuild that failed. Usually people just reuse the stock rods and get them resized, though sometimes peeps skip that step or don't check the clearances on the rod bearings before buttoning it all up, which is a very common reason for a rod bearing failure. That and shitty oil pressure, how was yours? Its a good idea on 7mgtes to replace all of the piston squirters and the relief spring in the oil pump (if reusing) and the factory oil cooler sandwhich plate (if you're using it). If the springs in any of those 3 things have fallen under stock specs, your motor will have lower peak oil pressure then it should, even with a new pump.
Thanks dude!

The machine shop replaced all rods, bearings, piston, everything. I'll check if the oil squirters were replaced. Still using the stock oil filter housing. I'm ditching that thing though. And I do plan to shim the oil pump. And put in a different spring. I picked up this kit from duax_machine. Think he's on supra forums and maybe on here
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/202139638389.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks dude!

The machine shop replaced all rods, bearings, piston, everything. I'll check if the oil squirters were replaced. Still using the stock oil filter housing. I'm ditching that thing though. And I do plan to shim the oil pump. And put in a different spring. I picked up this kit from duax_machine. Think he's on supra forums and maybe on here
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/202139638389.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk
Here's the diagnosis from the machine shop on the motor.

Don't give up on me the rod bearings are getting squeezed which is common on super high boost applications or the oil is getting diluted with gas because they show signs of the beginnig of loosing lubrication.

The oil pump bothers me as it shows signs of metal/debris going thru it and it is the only part that does not have filtered oil

That is usually signs of dirt/foreign debris on assy

#5and #6 piston are the only ones showing signs of small scuffing like the piston is running hotter

All of the rings look good.

The bottom of the rod bearings and the mains look good except for a few minor blemishes

Of course we talked about the seal, you where consistent the front one and the jack shaft seal where also backwards

I am looking up now for prices on coated bearings but I do need you to check the tune on this engine as we have a lot of build up from excess fuel .

No did not replace oil squirters.
I did reuse the old squirter bolts that have the piston in them they blew clear so I don't think any of those were clogged


Here's pic of oil pump. Again this was brand new


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
It sure is great to post a build thread a year and a half later so you can skip the gory details!
In case you forgot, I have those intake parts you may want so you don't have to convert anything. Let me know. I'm so far from my build being close to completion, I may consider having you guinea pig my FFIM set-up. Muahaha! If you're down. We'll get together soon now that the craziness of the holidays are behind us.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
It sure is great to post a build thread a year and a half later so you can skip the gory details!
In case you forgot, I have those intake parts you may want so you don't have to convert anything. Let me know. I'm so far from my build being close to completion, I may consider having you guinea pig my FFIM set-up. Muahaha! If you're down. We'll get together soon now that the craziness of the holidays are behind us.
Hey man! Yes we definitely will get together soon. I didnt forget. I hate taking your parts. I want to see you get your build going. I do understand life changes yiud priorities and things. We shall see. Going ffim will require a new intercooler as mine has the in and out on same side. Unless I want to learn how to tig weld! Ha. One of these days but that's an art and skill all by itself. And you need good equipment. Anyway we shall chat soon.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,280 Posts
Nice to get that info on the tear down, sounds like the builder is claiming some fault for the failure?

Kinda sounds like too much fuel was the biggest problem, or the rings hadn't sealed fully.

That new oil relief piston and spring is cool! However, the maker of it had different perf targets then most. I believe the stock oil pressure for 7mgte's is at least adequate for most people's builds and the stock RPM limit. This guy is obviously building a drag motor that he wants to spin well past what the motor was designed to do. There certainly can be such thing as too much oil pressure but I'm not enough of an expert to say off hand that the 70-80 he is quoting on a turbo build running the stock redline would be. My advise was to replace all of the original springs in the oil system that limit peak oil pressure, which includes the sandwhich plate's relief vale, the one in the pump and each and every piston squirter. If you install this dudes stiffer spring, you may not see much higher pressure then stock f you keep the piston squirters. All of those springs bleed peak oil pressure, they fully open around 45-48psi apparently...

http://www.supramania.com/forums/threads/40367-Oil-Squirter-Opening-Pressure-Test-Info

Its possible the orifices in them limit the rate of flow enough that they don't cap overall oil pressure at 48psi, but they may. Regardless, if the springs in them are worn and softer then new ones, you will most certainly see lower peak oil pressures then stock, which of course is no good for rod bearings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Nice to get that info on the tear down, sounds like the builder is claiming some fault for the failure?

Kinda sounds like too much fuel was the biggest problem, or the rings hadn't sealed fully.

That new oil relief piston and spring is cool! However, the maker of it had different perf targets then most. I believe the stock oil pressure for 7mgte's is at least adequate for most people's builds and the stock RPM limit. This guy is obviously building a drag motor that he wants to spin well past what the motor was designed to do. There certainly can be such thing as too much oil pressure but I'm not enough of an expert to say off hand that the 70-80 he is quoting on a turbo build running the stock redline would be. My advise was to replace all of the original springs in the oil system that limit peak oil pressure, which includes the sandwhich plate's relief vale, the one in the pump and each and every piston squirter. If you install this dudes stiffer spring, you may not see much higher pressure then stock f you keep the piston squirters. All of those springs bleed peak oil pressure, they fully open around 45-48psi apparently...

http://www.supramania.com/forums/threads/40367-Oil-Squirter-Opening-Pressure-Test-Info

Its possible the orifices in them limit the rate of flow enough that they don't cap overall oil pressure at 48psi, but they may. Regardless, if the springs in them are worn and softer then new ones, you will most certainly see lower peak oil pressures then stock, which of course is no good for rod bearings.
Yeah the machine shop is working with me on the price of the rebuild. He's a real nice guy and actually his dad starting the shop in fort worth in like 1965 or something. They just moved the shop to Cleburne tx which is a little south of fort worth. So they've been tied up getting it read. Hoping to get the motor back by end of month.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Got a little done this weekend
I'm pretty much finished stripping the engine bay. It's ready for a deep clean, sand and then paint.

Any suggestions to fix the rust in the bolt holes for the bumper?

I took off the lower radiator supports and the rubber looks like it's in bad shape. This normal? I previously had a mk3 rad so thinking it poked a few holes in the rubber.

Also, I took our the gas pedal and acc cable. When taking it off i noticed there is a white plastic piece with a black thing that seems to serve as a stop to keep pedal from travelling too far. Does this look broken? If so any ideas on how to fix?










Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk
 

·
Founding Member
Joined
·
6,227 Posts
For cleaning rust out of threaded holes I use what's sometimes called a bottle brush or tube brush with wire bristles. I'll have a bunch of different sizes (usually a tool vendor sells them cheap at the swap meets and I'll stock up). I'll cut the loop off the handle end, stick them in a drill and basically run them in and out the hole, making clouds of red dust until clean. I've also used gun cleaning bore brushes tho they tend to be a bit expensive for what's often a one-time use.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
For cleaning rust out of threaded holes I use what's sometimes called a bottle brush or tube brush with wire bristles. I'll have a bunch of different sizes (usually a tool vendor sells them cheap at the swap meets and I'll stock up). I'll cut the loop off the handle end, stick them in a drill and basically run them in and out the hole, making clouds of red dust until clean. I've also used gun cleaning bore brushes tho they tend to be a bit expensive for what's often a one-time use.
Thanks Phil. These holes are not threaded as the bolt is very long goes through the frame rail and then has a nut on the bottom. The top of the bolt has an oblong washer so that it catches onto the nearby metal and you can tighten the nut underneath with the bolt staying in place. I do like your suggestion of using a bottle or tube brush with wire bristles. i'll see what i can find and then maybe spray some rust oleum paint down in the hole or heck I could even just use the same paint I'm using on the entire engine bay.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,282 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,280 Posts
Man, I never saw any of that stuff in your thread till now Gamble, don't know why the forum never promoted it to me (I was subscribed).

Whitey, I see you already removed the battery mount, how rusty was it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Man, I never saw any of that stuff in your thread till now Gamble, don't know why the forum never promoted it to me (I was subscribed).

Whitey, I see you already removed the battery mount, how rusty was it?
Actually the battery tray wasn't bad at all. Just some surface rust. There's zero bad rust on the car which is one of the main reasons why I bought it. Just some surface issues here and there like the driver side headlight mounting point. And the bolt holes for the bumper

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk
 
1 - 20 of 107 Posts
Top