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Yeah. Like I said haven't actually done it, but it should be doable.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
You need to clearance it. You can also elongate the hole in the flange to allow the pump to be rotated slightly further away from the crank. I had to do that on the 7mgte swap in my 84 over a decade ago when I went with the 5mge pump instead of the 7mgte pump with modded pickup tube.
Yes you are right. I ended up grinding the flange until it was past the block. Now there is plenty of clearance. Im pretry sure the first rebuild the motor clearanced itself and threw metal shavings all over

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Discussion Starter #83
Been a while since my last update. I have made a little progress. I’ve got the motor pretty much all assembled now. I had to redo the exhaust manifold studs as cylinder number six stripped out on me. And then the bolt holes for the lift hook on back of the head stripped out too. So I decided to drill them all out and install helicoils and upgrade to a bigger size stud - 7/16”. I stole driftmotions kit idea - https://www.driftmotion.com/7-16-Exhaust-Stud-Kit-p/dm139.htm and pieced together my own.

I’ve temporarily dropped the motor in the car so I can start routing intercooler pipes and figuring out where stuff will go. My goal is to hide as much as possible without doing a whole bunch of fabrication because well i’m not skilled in that area. I may need to sacrifice hiding and tucking some things. Here’s my punch list

  • Mount intercooler and route piping
  • Mount oil cooler, lines and thermostat. Next big purchase is the oil cooler set up. I bought a used mishimoto thermostat from a guy on facebook and i bought an oil cooler from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MATC0BF/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. So now i just need the fittings and an hoses. I’m looking at getting those form summit racing. And man those things are not cheap.
  • figure out power steering cooler and hoses. Mount p/s reservoir in front of radiator instead of on the passenger side of the head.
  • figure out where to hid relays in engine bay
  • figure out where to mount oil catch can. Thinking of where the cruise control module is mounted behind the drivers side shock tower. Then need to move cruise to the other side of the engine bay or just ditch it all together.
  • sort out throttle cable for FFIM. I am thinking about buying a Lokar universal from summit
  • Need TPS from a Infiniti Q45. I have a Ron R FFIM with a Godspeed 70mm throttle body - https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Upgrade-Aluminum-Throttle-Adaptor/dp/B00T59TL0W. . Says only works with q45 TPS. Does anyone know if this Q45 to 7m adapter would work? It’s 25 bucks from driftmotion and seems to me that would be the best route. Keep the stock tps and wiring. https://www.driftmotion.com/BPM-202-24-p/dm1043.htm
  • make or drill/tap plug for egr block off plate on back of head

Also one thing that continues to bother me is when I was cleaning up the engine block mounting surface and getting ready to put the head on, I noticed some pitting around the water jackets on some of the cylinders. I called the machine shop and they said it’s not a huge deal. You can JB weld it if you want. But it seems to me this could cause issues with the head gasket fully sealing. I previously had a metal head gasket installed and torqued to 90 ft ibs in stages. Do you think that could have cause the pitting? I mean cast iron is pretty tough metal. So seems to me it shouldn’t do that. When I had the motor rebuilt the first time there definitely wasn’t any pitting like that. Should I be concerned or not a big deal?

 

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Whistles
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If the pitting fits inside the water jacket hole for the gasket, send it.

My head is torqued to 90ftlbs. Lots of us JZ guys are that high.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
If the pitting fits inside the water jacket hole for the gasket, send it.

My head is torqued to 90ftlbs. Lots of us JZ guys are that high.
Thats a good point. I think it's close. Ive got the head installed now and a bunch of things already assembled. So I cant really tell for sure. The head gasket is a titan 1.4mm metal head gasket. Running 83.5mm size pistons so 0.020" over bore.

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Discussion Starter #86
If the pitting fits inside the water jacket hole for the gasket, send it.

My head is torqued to 90ftlbs. Lots of us JZ guys are that high.
I would measure the water jacket hole on the gasket and then compare to the size of that hole on the block and see how mich overlap there is. That would tell me if the pitting would fit inside water jacket hole for the gasket. If anyone has those measurements that would be great. Otherwise I suppose I could take it all apart and look. Or risk it and see what happens.

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Whistles
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The pitting is probably from electrolysis, so it will still fit into the provision in the head gasket.

A yearly change of antifreeze/water is just basic maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
The pitting is probably from electrolysis, so it will still fit into the provision in the head gasket.

A yearly change of antifreeze/water is just basic maintenance.
Well I had the motor rebuilt two years ago and at that time there was no pitting on the block anywhere. Then I ran the car maybe six months and put 2k miles on it before i had to tear it back down to have it rebuilt a second time. Since then no water has ever been come in contact with the block. So I would think that’s not enough time for any sort of corrosion from the coolant or water. But who knows weird stuff happens to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Heres are a couple pics of the motor where I'm mocking up the intercooler and piping


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Whistles
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Looking good on the fabrication. Respect.
 

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Why did you tear the motor down the 2nd time? That pitting kinda looks like you had a BHG there.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Why did you tear the motor down the 2nd time? That pitting kinda looks like you had a BHG there.
You're right I think it had a bhg. When I got back from SIV 2017, changed the oil and appeared milky anf was a shiny metallic color. And the head stud nuts were loose. If u look back earlier in my build thread I talk about it. Car never overheated or anything and didn't have any other signs of a bhg.

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Yeah BHGs have many symptoms, can come and go, and will have 1 symptom but not another etc. I'd say you definitely had one looking at that port and the milky oil. The loose head studs would explain how it happened and why water would be able to cross over that port that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
I've been making a bit more progress. It's super slow though due to a bunch of things. My goal is to finish by October for SIV. Thinking at this point it probably won't happen. I'm not rushing this to get it done. I want to build this right and be 100% happy with the results. Anyway, here is my update on the punch list.

  • Mount intercooler - DONE and route piping - Almost. Need to clean up the two holes for the piping. One each side of engine bay. I was thinking of getting some exhaust trim rings for a nice clean look and then use a large rubber O-ring or something to seal it up.
  • Mount oil cooler, lines and thermostat. Next big purchase is the oil cooler set up. I bought a used mishimoto thermostat from a guy on facebook and i bought an oil cooler from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1. So now i just need the fittings and an hoses. I’m looking at getting those form summit racing. And man those things are not cheap. DONE
  • figure out power steering cooler and hoses. Mount p/s reservoir in front of radiator instead of on the passenger side of the head. Preston helped me with this and we ended up putting an N/A 7M PS reservoir near the wiper motor. It looks okay but I would rather have a nicer reservoir like the stock GTE one.
  • figure out where to hide relays in engine bay. plan is to relocate to trunk
  • figure out where to mount oil catch can. Thinking of where the cruise control module is mounted behind the drivers side shock tower. Then need to move cruise to the other side of the engine bay or just ditch it all together. Currently it's mounted next to PS reservoir. May change depending what I end up doing with PS.
  • sort out throttle cable for FFIM. I am thinking about buying a Lokar universal from summit. Bought a new one for a Celica from rockauto. Length seems to be a little long but will work with it.
  • Need TPS from a Infiniti Q45. I have a Ron R FFIM with a Godspeed 70mm throttle body - https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Upg.../dp/B00T59TL0W. . Says only works with q45 TPS. Does anyone know if this Q45 to 7m adapter would work? It’s 25 bucks from driftmotion and seems to me that would be the best route. Keep the stock tps and wiring. https://www.driftmotion.com/BPM-202-24-p/dm1043.htm. I posted a separate thread about my TB issues. I ended up ordering a new 70mm universal TB and will use the Q45 to 7M adapter from DM.
  • make or drill/tap plug for egr block off plate on back of head. Not started
My main focus right now is relocating the fuse box and relays to trunk. Does anyone have any tips or tricks of doing this? I found this thread from lacrssgus14 who did the same thing for the same reasons I am. I sent him a PM for some guidance / clarification on what he did. My goal is to not solder or lengthen any wires. I want to de pin all the fuse box connectors and run longer wires to their end points and then crimp on new terminals.

What I have done so far is I removed the entire front portion of the cabin harness, the three harness that go into the engine bay and laid them all out on tables in my garage. That way I can re route things a lot easier and visualize how I'm going to relocate and run new wires.
 

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I've thought about relocating the fuze box and relays too, but cringe at the thought of having all those wires so long when everything that needs those is under the hood anyways. I relocated my battery and made a quick panel to hide the stock wiring nightmare under the fuzebox for the interm. I think I'm just going to do a nice short relocation of all that stuff to immediately behind the DS headlight bucket so its still accessible but out of the line of sight when viewing the engine bay from in front. Personally I'm all for show car engine bays, but never at the expense of reliability, performance or serviceability. I always try to find solutions that meet that criteria when making modifications.
 

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Discussion Starter #96
I've thought about relocating the fuze box and relays too, but cringe at the thought of having all those wires so long when everything that needs those is under the hood anyways. I relocated my battery and made a quick panel to hide the stock wiring nightmare under the fuzebox for the interm. I think I'm just going to do a nice short relocation of all that stuff to immediately behind the DS headlight bucket so its still accessible but out of the line of sight when viewing the engine bay from in front. Personally I'm all for show car engine bays, but never at the expense of reliability, performance or serviceability. I always try to find solutions that meet that criteria when making modifications.
I'm cringing too because theres A LOT of wires. I need to take my time amd plan it right. I'm studying the TEWD for my car and trying to put together a game plan. So far I priced out the wire alone is north of $100 USD. Keeping the same colors and quality as factory. I found this place https://4rcustomswire.com/. They have just about every color combo and you can order smaller lengths. Instead of small places that only sell bulk.

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Whistles
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Looking good so far!
 

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Watch out for high current things with relays, like headlights for instance. If you move the relay 10 feet back and add 20 feet of wire to do it, that's a lot of potential for resistance/heat.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Been a while since I posted an update.* This past summer I spent some time on re-wiring the fuse box to the trunk.* I moved the wiring work station into the house since Dallas is hotter than hell in the summer.* I didn’t feel like baking my insides.* So I got to work on extending all the wires that go to the fuse box, figured out where they routed and in 95% of the wires, I completely replaced the wire following the appropriate factory coloring scheme, and crimped on new terminals.* There were a few cases where I couldn’t find terminals like the terminals for the turn stalk.

Now that it’s much cooler I moved the wiring back into the car.* I’m in the process of routing the new wire harness to the hatch area.* I followed the factory routing of the rear wiring harness.* And then will split off in the hatch and route under the wooden spare tire cover/floor thing. *

I installed a kill switch outside of the car on the rear license plate.* I will route power from the switch to a 300A circuit breaker.*For the starter I'm using a ford remote solenoid that will be installed in the hatch. That way the starter cable is hot only when starting. I'm running a 1/0 awg cable from the ford solenoid to the starter.

I’ve heard different views on routing a ground wire from the battery all the way to the front of the car to the engine block.* Some people say it’s necessary others say just ground the battery in the trunk with shortest lead possible to bare metal.* And then ground the engine block to the frame rail.*I'm going to try grounding the battery in the trunk.

I'm hoping to finish the wiring by end of year. Get interior put back together. Then start tackling repainting the engine bay.


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