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Discussion Starter #102
Unusual project!
Yes it is! And it's taking forever. I have a vision for an extremely clean engine bay showing off the 7m motor. Main reason to relocate the fuse box and battery to hatch is I went with a front facing intake manifold. There's definitely no room for the battery and the fuse box would be tight. So I opted to move it as well. More updates to come.

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I have a vision for an extremely clean engine bay showing off the 7m motor.
I'm looking forward to seeing it. While I do have a thing for absolutely original cars, I also admit that I am always impressed by many of the pr-touring style resto-mods where there appears to be nothing in the engine bay but the engine itself, surrounded by just slick, glossy firewalls. Kind of harkens back to the coachbuilt cars of the 20s and 30s when the engine was as much a work of art as the rest of the car.
 

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Perhaps you already have, but if not, then this would be a perfect time to replace an old heater core.
 

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Were did you find all the wire to wire your car and are they factory colors?

thanks Just starting my build

James
 

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Discussion Starter #107
I'm looking forward to seeing it.
Hopefully by next fall you can see it!

Mother of god. You've gone all in.
There’s no turning back now!

Perhaps you already have, but if not, then this would be a perfect time to replace an old heater core.
Absolutely a great time and plan to do that. I’m replacing a lot of things since everything is taken apart. Brake master cylinder, clutch master cylinder, etc..

Were did you find all the wire to wire your car and are they factory colors?
I found a online store called 4RCustoms Wire https://4rcustomswire.com/. They specialize in custom small length automotive wire. They have pretty much every color combo you can think of.
 

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Discussion Starter #108
Time for an update!

Finished the fuse box and battery relocation to the rear hatch. I tucked away various relays, circuit breakers and things in the passenger rear compartment. It turned out to be a great spot. I never understood what this compartment was for since it's an odd space but this worked out great.

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Finished the HVAC conversion. I decided to go with a manual, heater only set up from an RA64 celica. I sourced all the parts from car-part.com and got the entire hvac including ducts, control cables and everything from a car in Idaho. It sat in a yard for at least 20 years and had dirt everywhere. BUT it was all there. The only issue i'm having with this set up is the heater core. The heater control valve on the celica mounts on the driver side next to the brake booster. Well that means the heater core pipes need to point toward the driver side of the car instead of the passenger side like the supra. The celica heater core would work great BUT it's discontinued and I can't find it anywhere. I tried to flip the supra heater core and point the pipes toward the driver side but they are not in the right position on the heater core to pass through the firewall. I fought for like an hour and tried to get it to work but it's just not in the right spot. I could open up the firewall holes but then I wouldn't be able to seal it up with the rubber plug. The other option is just use the supra heater core, point the pipes toward the passenger side and then loop back the heater hoses toward the driver side. The hose routing gets a little tricky this way and there isn't much room behind the motor. The third option would be to modify the supra heater core. Cut the pipes off and re-weld them on in the correct position for what I need. So not sure what I'm going to do yet. Maybe a local radiator shop could do this for me?

Mounted my AFPR and fuel lines:

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TODO:
-oil catch can
-sort driveshaft. I bought a one piece driveshaft from @SilverMk2 and he hooked me up. It has the stock mk2 flange with zirk fittings on the u-joints for greasing. HOWEVER, I would like to upgrade the flange for the diff to a Mk3 setup which is much beefier. So what I'd like to do is take the driveshaft to a shop, have them cut and weld on a mk3 flange (which i have) and have them shorten the whole thing about an inch. Then pick up the MK2 Diff adapter to Mk3 flange from driftmotion. The nice thing about this is you don't have to disturb the stock diff flange and pinion nut. I'm not familiar with diffs and so I'd rather not mess with it. It's a bit pricey at $125. I'd be about $245 all in on the driveshaft - $70 for driveshaft + $125 for adapter + $50 for cut and weld (estimate).
-sort throttle cable. I bought one from a RA64 celica but it's too long and broke the plastic thing on the cabin side. I found this one that is a couple inches shorter that might work better > 4Runner cable
-finish COP - coil over plug set up. Extend coil wire harness and mount the IS300 coils. Thinking about modifying the stock center cylinder gasket or start from scratch with some aluminium bar stock.

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-Decide to paint engine bay now or later. See dilemma below.
-mount boost control solenoid - passenger side shock tower
-Sort out power steering. Either DELETE and loop the lines OR relocate the PS pump and reservoir to the driver side underneath the alternator where there is way more room. More on that here

Parts Needed List:
-Diff Adapter for MK2 Supra Diff to MK3 Supra Flange
-Oil Catch Can
-90 Degree AN-6 Male to Female Adapter, Plated Steel
for fuel filter
-ECUMaster Boost Control Solenoid Kit
-ECUMaster Air Temperature Sensor Kit.
This will complement my DET3 piggy back controller and allow me to go with a speed density setup and eliminate the AFM. My upper inter-cooler pipe already has the 1/8" NPT bung welded on so it'll bolt right on.


BUT I'm at a crossroads with this whole build.. The car has been down and off the road going on three years this fall. I really want to get it running and driving again. So my dilemma is do I hook everything up, get it running and driving. Enjoy it for a while. Then, tear it all down and paint the engine bay later. Or do I just get it all done now. The engine bay has body filler all over it so it doesn't look very appealing and would not look good at any sort of car show. If I paint the engine bay now, I'm probably looking at driving it next year.
 

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I would say skip the driveshaft work on this go around, skip the engine bay paint, and get it up faster. You may end up redoing something in the engine bay anyway, so leaving it as is for now means less rework later.

Interesting ideas for how you ran the wiring. Not sure I would want that fuse box having to go up and down with the spare tire panel, but it looks like you stress relieved it pretty well honestly.

I know you can get slightly cheaper boost solenoid and air temp sensor kits, but ecumaster is solid. Are you able to pick the stuff up locally as well? He's based out of DFW area for the US importer, so if shipping is a concern you may be able to do that.

Killer progress man. I'm finally almost ready to start tackling stuff on my car after seemingly years of being pulled into other projects.
 

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Discussion Starter #110
I would say skip the driveshaft work on this go around, skip the engine bay paint, and get it up faster. You may end up redoing something in the engine bay anyway, so leaving it as is for now means less rework later.
I'm leaning toward that route. I just want to drive the damn thing! And you're right, I will more than likely change my mind on something in the engine bay.

I know you can get slightly cheaper boost solenoid and air temp sensor kits, but ecumaster is solid. Are you able to pick the stuff up locally as well? He's based out of DFW area for the US importer, so if shipping is a concern you may be able to do that.
I forgot about that. Their US corporate office is in Garland, TX. I dont know if they sell direct from there. The closest dealer that pops up on their website is Power House Racing in Fort Worth. I guess I could call. But I'm ordering a bunch of other stuff from driftmotion so i just may throw those sensors in there.

Killer progress man. I'm finally almost ready to start tackling stuff on my car after seemingly years of being pulled into other projects.
Thanks Dude. It's definitely been a long haul thus far. Preston reached out to me and asked if I'd be interested in taking a trip down to Austin soon. I'm definitely down for that and it would be cool to make a weekend out of the trip.
 

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Thanks Dude. It's definitely been a long haul thus far. Preston reached out to me and asked if I'd be interested in taking a trip down to Austin soon. I'm definitely down for that and it would be cool to make a weekend out of the trip.
Come on down my man. Would love to have you. If there any parts you need let me know, finally about ready to start stripping my parts car and as you know i've got way too many parts in general. Also not sure who's truck/van you'd be taking, but you're welcome to toss it on the lift if there is any quick job you wanted to do on it.
 

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About the heater core dilemma. I havn't done it yet myself, but I was planning on converting to the ra6 stuff myself too at some point. My plan was to keep the Supra core, and mount the ra6 valve in the vicinity of the supra one. Though lower and out of site, because its ugly. Yes I know this one is cable operated and the cable on the slider controls is sized to have it come out on the DS of the engine bay, but its not really a complicated cable. Just a wire that slides inside of a tube, I figured I could swap a longer one on, reroute it just make a new one thats long enough to come out somewhere on the PS of the car. There is too much going on, on the intake side of LHD inline 6 Supras, I wouldn't jam any more crap in that area if you can avoid it. Its hard enough as is to change the starter, deal with the booster, all the crap under the intake etc.

That said, good ol Toyota electronics, everything is still working fine in my HVAC on my 220k km 86 so the motivation to do this is still pretty low.
 

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Discussion Starter #114

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Discussion Starter #115
I started to put together the front end and my headlights things. One thing I noticed is the gap between the fender and headlight are not the same on both sides of the car. The passenger side had a much larger gap. So I decided to adjust it and loosened all the bolts to see if I could close the gap a bit more. That worked pretty well. I got the gaps now the same on both sides. While I was down on the ground loosening the fender bolts, I decided to take off the rocker panels too. I've heard these are prone to rust so I wanted to see what was underneath. To my surprise both sides are pretty clean. I can see a bit of rust former on the back end of the passenger molding. And I discovered one of the clips is broken. I could always tell there was a gap and it didn't fit quite snug. So what I'm going to do is repaint them and use some rust oleum to prvent any more rust from spreading. BUT i can't see to find the clips anywhere.

Does anyone know where I can find replacement clips or ones that are very close that work? Any ideas there?
 

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Looks like mine, too! When they rust, it expands, like my drivers side.:cautious:
Maybe the replacements can include clips.
 

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I havn't checked if those clips are still available new or not. The 89-91 Cressidas use similar clips, but they are probably different as the profile of their rocker moulding is a little different, they they can be adapted to fit our cars and they are stainless steel so they don't rust like ours do.
 

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Discussion Starter #119
UPDATE:

I set a goal to get my supra running and driving for SIV 2020. It's aggressive and I have a lot to do. I won't get to everything that I ultimately want to do with this car. But I feel like I need a goal to get my butt moving. SO I put together a task list and schedule to knock this out. I want to give myself enough time to drive the car for at least week, get the kinks out, fix stuff and make sure it's reliable enough to drive 1700 miles to vegas. Plan to leave Tuesday Oct 6, and arrive in Vegas evening of Weds Oct 7.

The task list is obviously a huge shot in the dark. I know how this stuff goes. And I'm sure there are other little things I'm missing. I tried to group tasks into categories so I can focus my time on one part of the car. There was really no science to figuring out how long each task would take. I don't know about you all but I tend to be a squirrel and jump all over the place. I'll set out to work on something then notice something else and get distracted and before I know it nothing was really accomplished.

My plan is to work each week night for a couple hours after the kids go to bed. And then put in a full day of work on the weekends. We'll be out of town for a week so there lose about 7 days there. I will keep this updated as I make progress and /or run into snags. I often wonder if it's better to post everything on this build thread including issues and questions or make separate posts in the appropriate sub-forum here. But then if I do that there's no direct link back to my build thread.

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Yes. Make a list and go on attack mode!
I'm the same way. Begin a procedure and digress to another one. SO MUCH TO DO!
 
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