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Same from 82 to early 86. Remove door panel; hook up battery to window motor to lower window until you can access bolts that hold glass to mechanism. Pull window up out of the way; remove bolts holding mechanism to door; remove mechanism; reverse process to reinstall.
 

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thanks bshapton ,motor will not work,so no hooking bat. to it . but I'll see what I can do ,my book has nothing on it , looks a lot tougher than others I have seen. thanks again
 

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motor will not work,so no hooking bat. to it .
You sure? I had an inop window and was going to replace the motor but hooked up 12v to make sure and wow the window went down. It turned out to be a corroded broken connection.
 

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Hi,will a window motor be the same from a 83 to a 82? also anyone have instructions on how to?
Good thing I found this thread. I am also confuse about this at the moment. I just want to say thanks.. Sorry for the late post.. Reading good threads here really helps. thumbs up.!

Same from 82 to early 86. Remove door panel; hook up battery to window motor to lower window until you can access bolts that hold glass to mechanism. Pull window up out of the way; remove bolts holding mechanism to door; remove mechanism; reverse process to reinstall.
 

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Bringing an old thread back from the dead, but it's always good to give info for future searches... :D When my motor stopped working in my '82, a couple of quick taps to the motor casing once the door panel was off brought it back to life long enough to replace it.
 

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When the window rolls down (and especially up) extremely slowly, is this the window motor having issues, or a combo of the motor and regulator?
 

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I plan on pulling apart the drivers door when I get the parts.
The window rattles around and the regulator is flopping around and the motor sounds bad,anyway.
I guess I can make an outside window belt.
I have the inner on order.
The motor from O'reilley's is $60.
Amazon $44 and free ship.
Dorman# 742-600.
I won't know what I need to replace until I get it all apart.

Are the rollers available in Dorman..."HELP?"

Thanks to a forum member ,I got the right rear wiper bushing I needed to fix the slop in the rear wiper.
I'll stick on some RAA mat in there, too as well as the drivers door panel.(Ebay)
All of the shit will be out of there, then.
Dynamat is expensive!(Ebay)

I wonder if it will hold up/stick to the firewall.
There is a lot of engine heat that I can feel on the inside of the firewall!
Is that why the vent temperature runs @ 90*?
 

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window parts

I plan on pulling apart the drivers door when I get the parts.
The window rattles around and the regulator is flopping around and the motor sounds bad,anyway.
I guess I can make an outside window belt.
I have the inner on order.
The motor from O'reilley's is $60.
Amazon $44 and free ship.
Dorman# 742-600.
I won't know what I need to replace until I get it all apart.

If you haven't already bought the parts I should have everything you need. Example: complete window motor and regulator - $15. Rollers - $1ea.
+ postage.
Bob
 

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Thank you,Sir.
I bought a complete right side regulator from you many years back that I can steal the rollers from.
Also bought a LR tail light assy. from you.
You have a LOT of parts!
I'll see what I need......soon.:salute:
 

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I replaced it today!

Yeah,it took longer than usual:it was my first time!

[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary-19.jpg.html][/URL]

While I had all of the regulator/motor out of the way,I put in Dynamat and RAA mat.

See the arrow? That's where it is supossed to be when you are finished.If you take out the motor,it WILL slap you in the foot,when the counterbalancing spring unwinds!

[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary-18.jpg.html][/URL]

If you use a Dorman unit,the mounting holes should be tapped out to 5 mm X .8. Tap the bottom right insert when it's upside down or you will get shavings inside the gear unit.

[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary-18.jpg.html][/URL]

Some engineer needed to use Torx head mounting screws! That bit size :I used a T-25.
Not clear in the photo.


[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary-18.jpg.html][/URL]

The new pigtail is a little different mounting location.The entire assembly comes out as you see.
Lower guide track at upper left.(Comes out first,after clamping window at about 1/4 way UP).
[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary-15.jpg.html][/URL]

About this position:[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary-15.jpg.html][/URL]

The lower track right side but is visible through an acess hole.(Not shown).
[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary-20.jpg.html][/URL]

[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary-16.jpg.html][/URL]

[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary-17.jpg.html][/URL]

The major adjust ments i made to the window were at the 2 upper "stops" and a little to the forward window
guide roller.Adjusted the roller a little closer to the window and moved both "stops" down a little.
I did mark them B-4 I did the adjustment.
The door closes better and I hope it is about right.Not tested on the freeway,yet.

B-4,I could NOT roll up the window above 70 MPH!

Sounds WAY better than B-4 when the window goes up and down,anyway.

I'll see.

Those jack-ass Torks bit requirement was a surprise.:duh:
 

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I replaced it today!

Yeah,it took longer than usual:it was my first time!

[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary-19.jpg.html][/URL]

While I had all of the regulator/motor out of the way,I put in Dynamat and RAA mat.

See the arrow? That's where it is supossed to be when you are finished.If you take out the motor,it WILL slap you in the foot,when the counterbalancing spring unwinds!

[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary-18.jpg.html][/URL]

If you use a Dorman unit,the mounting holes should be tapped out to 5 mm X .8. Tap the bottom right insert when it's upside down or you will get shavings inside the gear unit.

[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary-18.jpg.html][/URL]

Some engineer needed to use Torx head mounting screws! That bit size :I used a T-25.
Not clear in the photo.


[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary-18.jpg.html][/URL]

The new pigtail is a little different mounting location.The entire assembly comes out as you see.
Lower guide track at upper left.(Comes out first,after clamping window at about 1/4 way UP).
[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary-15.jpg.html][/URL]

About this position:[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary-15.jpg.html][/URL]

The lower track right side but is visible through an acess hole.(Not shown).
[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary-20.jpg.html][/URL]

[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary-16.jpg.html][/URL]

[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary-17.jpg.html][/URL]

The major adjust ments i made to the window were at the 2 upper "stops" and a little to the forward window
guide roller.Adjusted the roller a little closer to the window and moved both "stops" down a little.
I did mark them B-4 I did the adjustment.
The door closes better and I hope it is about right.Not tested on the freeway,yet.

B-4,I could NOT roll up the window above 70 MPH!

Sounds WAY better than B-4 when the window goes up and down,anyway.

I'll see.

Those jack-ass Torks bit requirement was a surprise.:duh:
I JUST found out
That the Dorman pig tail supplied reverses the polarity!
The usual up and down are now reversed!
. Oh,I'll get used to it....��
 
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