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So I am getting ready to remove my windshield and reinstall it in order to replace the seal around it. I ordered a dam kit from Toyota, and I am in the process of ordering the rest of the supplies needed. While looking into products and procedures for at-home windshield installations I came across "3M Auto Bedding and Glazing Compound." It is designed for installing windshields with rubber gaskets, and is supposed to be used in conjunction with a urethane adhesive. I tried searching through the CS.com forum to see if anyone has had any experience using this, but haven't been able to find anything.

In the TSRM it looks like they only use a two-part urethane based adhesive, but I am curious if anyone has tried using this 3M bedding and glazing compound for any window reinstalls and what were the results?

The TSRM also shows 2 different primers being used, one for the glass and one for the body. Does anyone have experience using the 3M single step primer #08682? Will this work for both the window and the body surface? Or is there an additional primer I need to use on the body?

And last question for now: TSRM shows butyl rubber strips used for sealing the back quarter windows. Reading through several threads on the forum I saw some people have used similar butyl strips with adhesive backing to reseal their quarter windows successfully. However, others have advised against doing so and suggest installing the quarter windows the same way as the wind shield. So which way would be best? It seems more economical to use the urethane adhesive since I am already going to be using it for the windshield. But does anyone on here have any experience with either of these methods and what would you ultimately suggest?

Thank you guys for taking the time to read this. I appreciate any input you may be able to provide!
 

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I don't remember reading many posts on the subject, so don't be surprized on low reply count.
On top of that, most people leave the windshield work to specialized shop.
 
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I most definitely do not have any experience installing windshields, but I have to get one changed. One experienced glass shop owner said that the new urethane adhesives are dramatically better than those of even 10 years ago.

I have a dam kit and asked if I should bring it in for him and he said that you really don't need a dam any longer. The urethane adhesives set much more quickly so you don't need the dam to hold the adhesive in place.

I have not had the windshield installed yet, but it sounds like a lot of the old TSRM information is truly obsolete.

I'm with RedP85 in thinking a glass shop that knows the new procedures will end up being cheaper while getting a better installation.

Dale
 
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For the windshield use urethane. The dam system is obsolete to most windshield installers since the newer urethanes are more controllable for the expert installers. Which brings up installation by a professional. I highly recommend it. I have installed a windshield myself and had a professional do it. It is worth it to just pay to have the windshield done right by a professional. You will have to have all the trim molding retainers installed on the body and on the trim moldings ready to go. The clips on the trim moldings must clip over the edge of the glass before the urethane cures.

The side windows I use the butyl tape and the rubber factory spacers shown in the service manual. If you do not still have the spacers then make some and test fit before installing. The spacers keep the glass from touching metal around the perimeter and at the sealing surface. 1/4" butyl works best but will still squeeze out a bit after installing the retainers and have to be scraped off before reinstalling trim moldings. Just did quarter windows so it is fresh in my mind.
 
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I have done a few using the 3M Windo-Weld 08609. There are two issues you need to be aware of. DO NOT try to squeaze that stuff with a manual caulking gun. Its far too viscous, you will have hand cramps for like the next month and it may even leak from getting too little material in spots. You can get a pneumatic gun pretty cheap online and buy an extra tube of urethane to practice with. Try to watch some u-tooob videos first. There's a certain way you need to cut the tip to make the bead shape just a certain way. And the dam kit isn't necessary but....it does make for a much cleaner, neater looking install because it keeps the urethane from oozing out toward the visible area. Any ooze will be directed back into the channel. Which by the way must be kept clear so water will freely flow around and out. AND it helps regulate the depth that the glass is set in as you don't want it too deep on one corner and not deep enough on the opposite corner. (Professionals don't want to use the dam kit because it takes an extra half hour or more to install it and they're all about doing it as fast as possible and moving on to the next job. They don't want to use your clips either. They'd rather just use a few dabs of urethane and tape the trim down till it cures rather than fiddle with clips.) You might be surprised to know that Toyota's dam kit is widely used in the classic car restoration world as nobody reproduces the original dam used on Corvettes and similar GM cars in the 60s, but Toyota's is a close approximation.
 

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Yeah.. I had mine replaced in the driveway by a pro in '98 i think, (no dam kit, I actually didn't know of it!) but still it flowed somewhat into the glass at one point. I don't really care, it's not very visible, not leaking and is firmly in place! :D
ChrisFix just recently made a pretty good video: (
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I think the Supra window is dependent on the small bricks to be placed along the lower edge to properly center it without moving.
Remember to insert the trim clips before the glue cures! (I almost missed it..)
 
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