Hi guys,
Help.
I have a 1999 model daily driver that just had a steel brake line break.
I am replacing the line and my flares look nothing like what they are supposed to look like.
I want to replace the line with the correct type couplings which are 3/16" M10x1.0mm with ISO/DIN/Bubble flare style rather than an ISO Double Flare.
I have never done Bubble flares and my flares look a lot different than what both the original lines looked like and what I see on-line.
I (of course) cheaped out and bought the cheapest ISO/DIN/Bubble Flaring tool I could buy and I suspect that this is the problem, but it could be the operator.
Are there better quality hand held flare tools that form a better bubble?
The new tubing that I am using is copper washed steel, not Copper/Nickel. I have read that Copper/Nickel is now a preferred material that is rust-resistant and much easier to form. Could this be part of my problem?
![Image]()
Original Bubble Flare on the right and the one that I am making on the left...
My Bubble flare is missing the bubble.
![Image]()
![Image]()
The die has formed the bell on the inside of the tube and there is a curve on the top of the flange. I don't think that the tube slipped in the clamp based on the clamp pattern.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Theslightly curved edge of the flange is supposed to seal against the curved seat of the adapter union. This is different compared to the traditional ISO Double Flare adapter which has a 'volcano' sticking out from the bottom of the adapter which matches the flare shape.
I suppose that this may work, but I don't want to put it all back together just to find that it's leaking.
![Image]()
![Image]()
The clamp has no recess in it. This forms the flat back of the flare. The die is run down to bell the tube. The instructions indicate that the tube should protrude from the clamp by the distance of the pin on the die. This distance is 5mm.
![Image]()
![Image]()
5mm pin depth. The curve of the die that forms the flare face is quite shallow. On the right is the die from a Jet brand ISO bubble flare tool. To me, it seems deeper.
Any suggestions and comments would be appreciated.
Dale
![Image]()
And I found the leak. Not too subtle. It was broken right off.
Help.
I have a 1999 model daily driver that just had a steel brake line break.
I am replacing the line and my flares look nothing like what they are supposed to look like.
I want to replace the line with the correct type couplings which are 3/16" M10x1.0mm with ISO/DIN/Bubble flare style rather than an ISO Double Flare.
I have never done Bubble flares and my flares look a lot different than what both the original lines looked like and what I see on-line.
I (of course) cheaped out and bought the cheapest ISO/DIN/Bubble Flaring tool I could buy and I suspect that this is the problem, but it could be the operator.
Are there better quality hand held flare tools that form a better bubble?
The new tubing that I am using is copper washed steel, not Copper/Nickel. I have read that Copper/Nickel is now a preferred material that is rust-resistant and much easier to form. Could this be part of my problem?
Original Bubble Flare on the right and the one that I am making on the left...
My Bubble flare is missing the bubble.
The die has formed the bell on the inside of the tube and there is a curve on the top of the flange. I don't think that the tube slipped in the clamp based on the clamp pattern.
Theslightly curved edge of the flange is supposed to seal against the curved seat of the adapter union. This is different compared to the traditional ISO Double Flare adapter which has a 'volcano' sticking out from the bottom of the adapter which matches the flare shape.
I suppose that this may work, but I don't want to put it all back together just to find that it's leaking.
The clamp has no recess in it. This forms the flat back of the flare. The die is run down to bell the tube. The instructions indicate that the tube should protrude from the clamp by the distance of the pin on the die. This distance is 5mm.
5mm pin depth. The curve of the die that forms the flare face is quite shallow. On the right is the die from a Jet brand ISO bubble flare tool. To me, it seems deeper.
Any suggestions and comments would be appreciated.
Dale
And I found the leak. Not too subtle. It was broken right off.
