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alright well thanks anyway. just ordered a shop wiring diagram manual for the sc300. hopefully will get it soon so i can get this rollin'
2JZ-GE PnP wiring guide
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Here is the wilbo stuff. idk if anyone has looked at this before, but its got 1j, 2jzge, 2jzgte, gte vvti info, alternator info and a ton other shit. This helped me with some concerns about the auto harness also.
http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/37092272/Wiki - wilbo666
http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/37092272/Wiki - wilbo666
Swapped a 2jzge r154 into a s13 and its been in limp mode the whole time. Any ideas let me know please im stuck. Changed my ecu and maf from my bro sc and there fine. Motor came from a 94 gs300 like yours. I wired in the third oxy sensor and no difference. Car wants to go just stick in limp mode. Wont rev past 3 to 4k. I was thinking o have the iacv wired up to switched 12v with the +b and +b1. Does it matter if there all powered together?
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ECU a an auto or manual?
the STA and NSW pin on the ECU need to see something or you'll get a soft rev
Auto ecu
STA needs to see 12v+ during crank...so front the starter wire on the ignition switch
NSW - ground trigger. Someone has also mentioned a switch for it, as it needs to see open during driving. I did nothing with this wire on my auto ecu and have had no problems.
Manual ecu
STA and NSW both need to see 12v+ during crank.
the STA and NSW pin on the ECU need to see something or you'll get a soft rev
Auto ecu
STA needs to see 12v+ during crank...so front the starter wire on the ignition switch
NSW - ground trigger. Someone has also mentioned a switch for it, as it needs to see open during driving. I did nothing with this wire on my auto ecu and have had no problems.
Manual ecu
STA and NSW both need to see 12v+ during crank.
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This thread is beautiful.
I'm looking for the diagram for the other style harness (jdm 2jzge )
Do you by chance have that
I'm looking for the diagram for the other style harness (jdm 2jzge )
Do you by chance have that
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791 Posts
Is the jdm motor a VVTI unit or no? What did it come out of?
A non VVTI jdm motor should be pretty much the same thing as any other non vvti motor....will probably use 1 wire 02's and isn't going to have EGR.
My car is running an early cali spec 2jzge from a gs300. Everything is the same as the JZA80 pinout except the shape of the body harness plugs, but wire colors are the same from what I had to hook up.
A non VVTI jdm motor should be pretty much the same thing as any other non vvti motor....will probably use 1 wire 02's and isn't going to have EGR.
My car is running an early cali spec 2jzge from a gs300. Everything is the same as the JZA80 pinout except the shape of the body harness plugs, but wire colors are the same from what I had to hook up.
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Alright so mostly everything is hooked up on my engine. We've been able to start it using starter fluid, but we can't get it to start using the injectors. The fuel pump is wired up and we can hear the fuel flowing through the fuel rail, but the injectors won't open. Any idea why this is happening? The motor is out of a 97 sc300
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You have some bad grounds most likely. There is a set of grounds that bolt tot he intake towards the front of the engine, and another set toward the rear. Also be sure there is a GOOD ground from the head to the body, and the body to the neg terminal of the battery. The neg of the batt to the block is a given.
as for the 1st gen 2jzge wiring, should be the same hookups required as the 1st gen 2jzgte. Here is my thread.
http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/s...y-it-is-to-start-an-aristo-2jz-gte&highlight=
as for the 1st gen 2jzge wiring, should be the same hookups required as the 1st gen 2jzgte. Here is my thread.
http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/s...y-it-is-to-start-an-aristo-2jz-gte&highlight=
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Alright thanks for the fast reply! so I put a ground from the head to the firewall, a ground to the battery from the block, a ground from the battery to the body and there's 2 grounds on the intake. It sounds a lot more intense now. It sounds like it's just about to start, but it doesn't start... Anything else I should check?
Hey im having the same issue you were having. I swapped 94 calispec gs300 2jzge into my s13. Car is running in limp mode. Pretty much the computer seems to be retaining memory cuz i have a check engine light even after i shut the car off and restart it. If i disconnect the battery and then start it no check engine light untill i drive it for a few mintutes although its still always in limp mode weather the cel is on or not. I tried jumping te1 and e1 at the diagnostics port next to the motor but nothing, the check engine light just remains on like when the car is started. I put a test light onto the te1 at the diagnostic port next to the motor but its not blinking. I also tried connecting te1 from the small ecu plug directly to a couple different grounds and still nothing. What could this be a bad ecu? I did switch my ecu with my bros sc300 and it ended up fixing his car mint so i though my ecu was good.
Again, SPEED SENSOR.
Zoot, Was your brothers "SC" ecu a 5-speed model? i believe only the auto ecu needs a SPD signal. so if you did not wire it and then you "fixed" the problem by attaching a Manual ecu then you may not have had a bad ecu in the first place...
Zoot, Was your brothers "SC" ecu a 5-speed model? i believe only the auto ecu needs a SPD signal. so if you did not wire it and then you "fixed" the problem by attaching a Manual ecu then you may not have had a bad ecu in the first place...
Naa my bros sc300 is a factory auto. For the speed sensor i just hooked up the signal wire from the vss on the tranny right to pin 2 on the small ecu plug. Im running a ar5 transmision which is supposed to be a updated r154 that doesent use the mechanical style signal but a vss signal. I have a dakota digital sgi5 but not sure if i need to hook it up in between the ecu and the vss tranny sensor. It seemed to make alittle difference but it still cuts out. I maneged to do a weak brakestand with the front of the car facing up a hill. Definatly doesent hit the rev limitor. I compared reving to my bros stock sc and his shits revs way higher.
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791 Posts
Just to verify again, someone brought it up a while back about the E3 EFI Main Relay B+ Black/Red (Main function(s) Idle Air Control) wire.
In the guide it states to hook it to a switched ignition by the fuse box. Either the 5m's coil or injector resister, but it actually needs to be on the M-REL pin of the ECU. This wire stays powered for 3 seconds after the vehicle shuts down for the ISCV stepper motor to open back up. Being on ignition the stepper motor stays closed, causing a difficult time to start.
If anyone's swap runs perfectly but has shitty idle in the morning until fully warm (this was my situation) I would start here. My car would idle at 500 rpm in the morning after I would throttle it a little, then would idle at 900-1k after fully warm....I had to mess with the throttle stop screw to get this to happen. Now the car idles up to 1500~ on first start and work its way down as temp rises.
In the guide it states to hook it to a switched ignition by the fuse box. Either the 5m's coil or injector resister, but it actually needs to be on the M-REL pin of the ECU. This wire stays powered for 3 seconds after the vehicle shuts down for the ISCV stepper motor to open back up. Being on ignition the stepper motor stays closed, causing a difficult time to start.
If anyone's swap runs perfectly but has shitty idle in the morning until fully warm (this was my situation) I would start here. My car would idle at 500 rpm in the morning after I would throttle it a little, then would idle at 900-1k after fully warm....I had to mess with the throttle stop screw to get this to happen. Now the car idles up to 1500~ on first start and work its way down as temp rises.
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41 Posts
tried getting it to run again today. still only runs if i spray starting fluid in the intake. traced all injector wires to make sure they are connected correctly and checked a few other things. now it will fire while cranking, without starter fluid, but will not idle. i put a screw driver on each injector and cranked the engine a bit and i could hear them though some were easier to hear then others. also the return line constantly has fuel flowing through it, idk if thats normal or not but if i pinch the line it acts like it fires easier but still wont idle.
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lee, great post, probably wouldnt have tried 2j because of wiring if not for your post, but i have a few questions, i made a post on this site here http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/s...g-guide-for-gs300-2jzge&p=1112170#post1112170 but i have alot of pictures on the facebook group here: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10209925692725813&set=pcb.10153831060743751&type=3&theater
my main question is for the pin on the mk2 part of the ecu/makeshift pnp connector was the one in the pinout on ours labled as bat, but on your pinout you dont have it highlighted, but in your actual pictures of the connector the pin remains and looks to be used, so i wasnt sure, i left the pin, and linked it to the corresponding bat pin on the 2jzge layout. any clarification would be nice, and if needed i will find a way to upload pics to here if you dont have facebook. but great guide, main confusion comes as im color blind so its hard for me to match to your pic perfectly, and i hate wiring so i did my best with the layouts. id imagine pinning them to the corresponding pins on each ecu was the goal? just wanted to make sure, thanks.
my main question is for the pin on the mk2 part of the ecu/makeshift pnp connector was the one in the pinout on ours labled as bat, but on your pinout you dont have it highlighted, but in your actual pictures of the connector the pin remains and looks to be used, so i wasnt sure, i left the pin, and linked it to the corresponding bat pin on the 2jzge layout. any clarification would be nice, and if needed i will find a way to upload pics to here if you dont have facebook. but great guide, main confusion comes as im color blind so its hard for me to match to your pic perfectly, and i hate wiring so i did my best with the layouts. id imagine pinning them to the corresponding pins on each ecu was the goal? just wanted to make sure, thanks.
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Yes sir that is correct, the bat should be wired just as you said.
Additionally my wiring guide is not as perfect as I had Orginally thought 8 years ago. There are a few gremlins and landminds I have left in here. Thankfully the community has taken care of a lot of the issues for other people.
E3 idle are does need to be changed, it needs to powered by the Main Relay (M-REL) as people have said many times.
Sorry fellas for not changing or updating this for quite sometime. Hopefully I'll have time for the cars and such soon.
Thanks,
- Leon
Additionally my wiring guide is not as perfect as I had Orginally thought 8 years ago. There are a few gremlins and landminds I have left in here. Thankfully the community has taken care of a lot of the issues for other people.
E3 idle are does need to be changed, it needs to powered by the Main Relay (M-REL) as people have said many times.
Sorry fellas for not changing or updating this for quite sometime. Hopefully I'll have time for the cars and such soon.
Thanks,
- Leon
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192 Posts
thanks alot man, your guide as is, is a huge help with this swap. id been lost without it.
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791 Posts
Lee, or anyone else. Whats the "safe" fuel pump wiring setup you guys are running?
I'm currently just quick way with the AFM wires jumped for key on operation. Walboro 255 from raptor racing, stock wiring. Runs fine but I don't like the whole idea of the pump running whenever the key is on thing...
The factory GTE and GE ecu both have an output wire for the fuel pump ecu/relay box. Pin 22 on the 40 pin body plug. FPC (fuel pump control)
(copied from wilbo666)
This pin outputs a 0V to 5V Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) signal which is connected to the Fuel Pump ECU to control fuel pump speed
I'm also throwing a code in memory for the fuel pump. The factory ECU "see"s the fuel pump controller so to speak. There is a signal wire from the pump controller to the ecu, pin 21...40 pin connector. From the diagram it just sends a 12v battery to the engine ecu. I could bypass this by hooking it to 12v batt or ignition I'm guessing. This is more just a pet peeve thing than anything...and I'm really tired of going back into my harness...was trying to stay away from that till I go turbo
If the factory ecu for the pump was installed this would give hi/lo speed operation, which I don't really care about, but the pump would shut off once the engine does, not necessarily when the key does.
I'm currently just quick way with the AFM wires jumped for key on operation. Walboro 255 from raptor racing, stock wiring. Runs fine but I don't like the whole idea of the pump running whenever the key is on thing...
The factory GTE and GE ecu both have an output wire for the fuel pump ecu/relay box. Pin 22 on the 40 pin body plug. FPC (fuel pump control)
(copied from wilbo666)
This pin outputs a 0V to 5V Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) signal which is connected to the Fuel Pump ECU to control fuel pump speed
I'm also throwing a code in memory for the fuel pump. The factory ECU "see"s the fuel pump controller so to speak. There is a signal wire from the pump controller to the ecu, pin 21...40 pin connector. From the diagram it just sends a 12v battery to the engine ecu. I could bypass this by hooking it to 12v batt or ignition I'm guessing. This is more just a pet peeve thing than anything...and I'm really tired of going back into my harness...was trying to stay away from that till I go turbo
If the factory ecu for the pump was installed this would give hi/lo speed operation, which I don't really care about, but the pump would shut off once the engine does, not necessarily when the key does.
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