[SilverMk2]

There are a couple of ways to do this. One way is to use the fuel pump ECU (be careful to get the right one since there are a couple of different variations). There are like 5 wires to hook up. The other way that I've done is to use the FPC signal with a transistor to trigger the factory COR.

 

[MrBubbles00482]

There are a couple of ways to do this. One way is to use the fuel pump ECU (be careful to get the right one since there are a couple of different variations). There are like 5 wires to hook up. The other way that I've done is to use the FPC signal with a transistor to trigger the factory COR.

Which currently the two wires I have jumped at the AFM plug are triggering the COR, correct? I'll probably just use the existing pump wire for the 12v input of the fuel pump ECU

There is a 93 gs300 in the junkyard I'm gonna go grab the fuel pump ECU out of.

Wiring is straight forward, 12v ignition, ground, ECM trigger input, trigger output to ECM, and fuel pump +12v.

 

[SilverMk2]

Jumpering it at the AFM trigger the COR to run with the key on. That is kind of the lazy way to do it. The way I'm saying is to use the FPC signal to trigger the COR so it only runs when the engine is turning. I used a simple $1 transistor in the wiring harness to do it on my car for awhile.

 

[MrBubbles00482]

Jumpering it at the AFM trigger the COR to run with the key on. That is kind of the lazy way to do it. The way I'm saying is to use the FPC signal to trigger the COR so it only runs when the engine is turning. I used a simple $1 transistor in the wiring harness to do it on my car for awhile.

Gotcha, A 93 gs300 hit the junkyard not to long ago so I snagged the pump controller for like 5$. I double checked my wire harness on my ECU to make sure the two wires that go from the main ecu to FPC were still there. Whenever I get around to yanking the damaged front end off I'll think about wiring it up.

 

[Lee_MA61]

Sorry guys looks like photobucket went all gay on us. Since I don't want to pay those jack-wagons 400 a damn year just to embed photos on this forum, I will be slowly updating with Imgur.

Unit then the photos in these thread are hot linked below:

http://s22.photobucket.com/user/MA61_Supra/library/2JZ-GE wiring diagram

Thanks,
Leon

 

[dethfromabov1]

hey lee, any progress on changing the photos over? also just curious if i msg'd you on fb if you could send me copies of them so i can just save them like i shoulda when i did it

 

[dethfromabov1]

**this just in from lee** http://imgur.com/a/b5vO8 all the images in working order

 

[MrBubbles00482]

Yes sir that is correct, the bat should be wired just as you said.

Additionally my wiring guide is not as perfect as I had Orginally thought 8 years ago. There are a few gremlins and landminds I have left in here. Thankfully the community has taken care of a lot of the issues for other people.

E3 idle are does need to be changed, it needs to powered by the Main Relay (M-REL) as people have said many times.

Sorry fellas for not changing or updating this for quite sometime. Hopefully I'll have time for the cars and such soon.

Thanks,
- Leon

Just to update this thread as I think it should be a sticky. After a few years I've done the same thing Lee. Found some gremlins here and there.

M-REL pin: As we've stated before the ISCV needs to be powered from the M-REL circuit so it stays on. Factory ECU turns on the EFI main relay either in the driver kick or the EFI relay 2 in the engine bay next to the fuse box. I did not trace this to find out as it didn't concern me much.

I ended up running the M-rel pin like the guide so the OEM one is still powering on but tagged off of it to trigger a relay behind the glove box for the ISCV and 3 heated o2 sensors power.
Relay wiring

85 - M-REL
86 - Ground
87 - 12v+ fused
30 - 12v+ output to ISCV, o2 sensor heaters

Once the car is together in the next couple of days I'll trace the M-rel pin and see which one if not both that it triggers.

STA: Starter input. I've found that having this connected changes the way the car starts and idles. Also if it is connected during start and disconnected while running the car dies. Should see 12v+ in the start position and ground when not (through the starter relay coil). If not this can screw things up and cause code 12 to pop up. This wire connection is the same for auto and manual ECU

Black/White heavy gauge at the same connector the water temp sensor wire is in behind glove box.

NSW: Neutral safety wire. Auto ECU with see ground in P and N gear position. Manual trans this gets 12v form the STA pin. Same with sta wire this mucks with how the car would start and idle etc...

Wire this per what ECU you have! connecting NSW on an auto ECU to 12v+ starter (car is manual trans) caused a code 12 for me

I ended up just jumping this over to one of the to main grounds. EO1 and EO2 pin 79/80

Tach: Nothing wrong with the guide here, but you can find Tach in a single wire connector at the igniter by the engine bay fuse box. Would keep from having to run