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Discussion Starter #21
Little update
I ran the car around on the street for a while at 16-17lbs. Ran really strong felt a bit quicker than my 430whp c5 corvette.
The wastegate ended up coming off and it hit boost cut but might have been a little too late or at too high of rpm(was over 6500 when it blew off). I think it broke a lifter from the huge exhaust pressure increase or spun a rod bearing. Has a slight taping sound near the top end at idle.
I am thinking of swapping a 7m-ge and seeing if I can run the stock 7mge distributer pickup. Everything else should work fine. Just need some time to do it.
Other option is 2jz-ge and run a better turbo than the ct26. Thing is this ct26 made nearly 475whp on a dyno so it seems to be a factory freak.
 

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bummer to hear.... but 16 lbs. of boost is quite impressive.
If you ditch the 5mge, are you gonna be parting with your turbo goodies?
 

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Some quick answers...

Let me give this a try...Others can chime in too of course.

1- What 750cc bosch style high imp. injectors did you use? Can you give a part number? The reason I ask is Iv'e been shopping for injectors and am trying to get the most bang for my buck (as with everything of course), and I see that most injectors out there seem to draw an amp each. The Microsquirt site indicates that it is capable of supplying 5amps total. Is there some a safety factor built in to how they rated it perhaps or did your injectors draw less than 1amp each?
You need to let us know if you will be using E85 or not and what your goals for a build are at the start. If you dont have a goal, then dont start the build just yet. smaller injectors are easier to tune idle but that may not matter.

supra-man77 said:
2- I've read that my 82 could be difficult to turbo due to the vacuum setup
Move to an EDIS-6 setup and ditch the dizzy.

supra-man77 said:
3- Do you feel an intercooler is necessary if I stay below 8psi?
YES, ALWAYS. YES!

supra-man77 said:
4- What size of injector is best? Are smaller easier to tune? Or are the 750cc+ required if I want to bump up the boost some day, or even swap in a 7mgte or 1 or 2jz (if they would even fit)?
See comments in answer #1

supra-man77 said:
BTW so far my plan looks like getting a universal kit from ebay.
No. :duh::32: Please plan and do it right the first time or you will spend more money than you planned. (You will do this anyway, but at least you will only build it once.)

supra-man77 said:
Im not sure if I should go the t4 manifold and get a t4 or go t4 manifold + t4 to t3 adapter, or modify the existing 5mge manifold, or go ct26 with 7mgte manifold. Iv'e already been suggested to go manifold vs 7mgte header ( as my concern was having enough room between the strut tower and engine.
I would use the 7M manifold and get a 57-trim CT26 from driftmotion. Yes a T4 will make more HP, but I am running the 57-trim with forged internals and am completely satisfied with this decision.

I do not want to continue to pollute this wonderful thread with your build items. It would be best to start your own thread. I answered to get you going. There are lots of builds here and you can check out mine in my signature lines. I am glad to help.

Start your own build thread and document your progress.
 

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Even though I've never owned a turbocharged car, I can say from experience in other projects that it's vitally important to read all the build threads you can find, from start to finish. As you follow the thread, you'll see what mistakes were made (we all make them), how they were corrected, and what the final, working results were.

There's an accumulated wealth of wisdom here about what works, and just as importantly, what doesn't work.

Don't try to outsmart or outthink the Tribal Knowledge collected here! It's priceless, and will save you from reinventing the wheel, making everyone else's mistakes, wasting huge sums of money, and having endless failures and frustration.

I've been there, done that, and in the end, wound up doing things almost exactly the same way as the others who came before me had written about.

And feel free to ask questions as you go along. Somebody here on the forum has had whatever problem you're facing, and solved it.

- Jim
 

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Agreed CLTOY and drjim, and thank you for your response's and information.

I have much to learn about about building up my Supra, probably most important of which is good forum etiquette, if I want any help from you vets. I will start a new thread about my build and try to erase my last post from this one.

One question I think may still apply to this thread and is to flyjum (or anyone else with experience or knowledge of the microsquirt)- can it support 6amps worth of injectors?

Thanks,
supra-man77
 

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Agreed CLTOY, and thank you for your response and information.

I have much to learn about about building up my Supra, probably most important of which is good forum etiquette, if I want any help from you vets. I will start a new thread about my build and try to erase my last post from this one.

One question I think may still apply to this thread and is to flyjum (or anyone else with experience or knowledge of the microsquirt)- can it support 6amps worth of injectors?

Thanks,
supra-man77
 

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Yes, that's right but the microsquirt site says this- No pulse width modulation (PWM) to limit injector current. The fuel injector drives will max out at 5 amps each, enough to drive one low-impedance (or 4 high-impedance) injector per bank. To get everything to fit without lots of heat sinking, MicroSquirt® uses the ST VND5N07 from STMicroelectronics to drive the injectors. This is not a 'peak and hold' driver, but it does clamp the current at 5 amps, so it can be used with one low-impedance injector per bank, however the close time may be a tad higher (or you can use resistors). For up to 4 high-impedance injectors per bank, it should work fine. For example, for motorcycle use MicroSquirt® will be perfect!-

So that is why I ask,

Thanks again for your respose
 

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supra-man77

you asked on my thread but i figured i might aswell post it here. These are the injectors flyjum and I used,
the technical data is in there. I never tested them with a multimeter on the car when i had it running, but it says they take 1 amp.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/231459913890?rmvSB=true
 

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flyjum, or would anyone else be able to expand on this point? "Late year 5mge early years will work fine as well but you will need some of the later year parts"

I am working with an 82 5mge but also have complette 83 and 85 parts cars.

Thanks
 

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flyjum, or would anyone else be able to expand on this point? "Late year 5mge early years will work fine as well but you will need some of the later year parts"

I am working with an 82 5mge but also have complette 83 and 85 parts cars.

Thanks
You really want a later style 4 wire TPS with full range, the early ones are basically a switch that tell the ecu if the throttle is close or not.

You also want the 83+ distributor, the 82 is vac advance old school stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
So I got around to messing with this car again. Pulled the engine to see what the noise was. I bent 3 of the rods and one of them was lightly tapping the side of the block at the very bottom of the cylinder. Pistons and bearings looked perfect just the rods bent which is understandable as they are pretty long rods which makes them weaker than 7m rods.
I have been looking for a set of forged rods but no one seems to really offer them. Found a few chinese sellers on alibaba but they require 8+ sets to be ordered at once. Rock auto has one rod only so its looks like 5mge might be out of luck. Ill make a post on the wanted section to see if anyone has a set if not 7mge or 2jzge maybe even 1jzge NA-t
 

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I sold a set of Carillo 5mge rods a few years ago. They probably still have the specs on file. otherwise, I am sure someone has a 5mge they are parting and would be willing to sell the rods from. Sad thing is the 5mge is now becoming quite rare as most people junk them without offering them to anyone else first.
 
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